Modeling trousers with pleats and a belt. What are trousers called that have pleats at the waist? What to wear with chinos

In the world of men's fashion, pintucked trousers have become an integral part of business and evening suits. Their presence in fashion collections is cyclical, but stylists insist that with the right choice and packaging, such a model should be in your own wardrobe.

So, what cut do classic men's trousers with pintucks have? Looking through fashion lookbooks, you can note that these are models with a standard waistline, under the belt of which clearly marked and fixed folds are symmetrically located. In this case, folds - “tucks”, depending on the type of model, can be located in front either singly or in pairs. Otherwise, the cut can vary significantly. The fit ranges from extremely tight to loose, including the famous chinos and banana cuts. The length in such models for the most part remains at a standard height, but the efforts of modern designers produce both overly elongated and shortened models to the level of the ankles.

Men's trousers with pintucks should be plain. This limitation of the color palette is imposed on them by their distinctive feature - pintucks - and the stylistic rule that trousers should not be a pronounced accent of the image. Otherwise, a representative of the stronger sex can rely on his preferences - black, gray, bright red or noble burgundy, green, blue, white - it all depends on the image being created and the silhouette of the man.

The changes affected not only the cut, but also the fabric from which trousers with tucks at the waist are now made for the stronger half of humanity. If previously models were mostly offered from fine wool, now you can find options made from cotton, linen, canvas, jersey, wool of any thickness or knitwear. All that remains is to choose the right model.

Rules for choosing a model based on your figure

Are trousers with pintucks suitable for all representatives of the stronger sex? Definitely not. And such a categorical answer is explained by the function that tucks carry. Initially, they were conceived with the aim of correcting the male silhouette - “removing” excess visual volume in the hips, creating the illusion of a soft, even transition from the waist to the legs. And therefore, such models are recommended to a greater extent for men with large buttocks or voluminous upper thighs.

Judging by the photos of stylists about choosing their own model of trousers, it is recommended that those with a lean silhouette be especially careful when it comes to trousers with pintucks. With a strong degree of expression of this element, especially in combination with narrow trouser legs, the figure can easily “transform” into the outline of a pear, weighing down not only the hips, but also the buttocks.

But those with excess volume in the waist area should completely abandon this model of trousers, because... It is the tucks that will visually enlarge the problem area.

And lastly, it is worth remembering that clearly defined pintucks visually elongate the silhouette, and therefore those with excessively long legs are recommended to have trouser options in which the pintucks are located in pairs on each side and soften the overall look.

Standard and custom packaging options

The simplest stylistic solution to the question of what to wear with such trousers is to pair them with a business jacket and a shirt. The only thing that modern trends in creating images insist on is that the jacket and trousers must match in color and fabric, and the jacket itself “fits” over the trousers to the mid-thigh line, in this case hiding the tucks. But image experts suggest not to dwell solely on this combination.

So, for a casual style, it is recommended to combine pintucked trousers with sweaters. Moreover, the choice of fabric for a sweater depends on how “relaxed” the image is created. So, for a simple walk, cotton options will go, and for a festive dinner, cashmere or fine-string wool. Don't forget about accessories - a neckerchief laid in a rope will perfectly complement the look. The shoes in this case are also determined by the fabric of the sweater. T-shirts, derbies, moccasins, boat shoes, loafers or slip-ons are suitable. A combination of these pants with a knitted cardigan, vest and classic shirt of any shade other than white can add a special coziness to your look.

Combining them with sneakers, a bomber jacket and a casual shirt will help add a bit of sportiness to the image with the model of trousers in question. Long sleeves in combination with zip-up sweatshirts and sneakers will help enhance the effect of a sporty style. But in this case you should choose wide models with tucks, sewn from soft knitwear or linen or cotton. However, the “banana” style is also suitable for the last look.

In conclusion, it remains to note that trousers with pintucks are again at the peak of popularity. In this regard, stylists especially insist that men carefully select and combine them, taking into account all the features of this cut.

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Trousers are a piece of clothing borrowed by women from men. It first appears in women's wardrobes in the 30s of the last century. The type of cut and type of fabric for women's and men's models were initially identical. Soon this item of clothing was able to acquire purely feminine silhouettes and features.

Constructive modeling of women's trousers allows you to obtain a number of product styles based on a standard pattern. The basis is a drawing of classic straight, wide or narrow trousers.

Ladies' styles

The variety of styles of women's trouser models is quite large. Changes in the design of models may concern the waist part, fit, seat level, design of the legs and shape of the cuffs. Items vary by fabric type.

Basic female models

With arrows.
Wide.
Narrow.
Flare.
Bell.
Breeches.
On an elastic band.
On the hips.
Skirt-pants.
Zouaves.
Shortened.
Shorts.

A number of models have pronounced ethnic characteristics and bear foreign names. Some styles are named similarly to the name of the fabric from which the products were traditionally sewn. At the beginning of its history, modeling trousers was an unspoken privilege of famous film actresses - mainly Hollywood ones.

The basic women's trouser design consists of two halves - front and back. The drawing of the back half is made on the basis of the pattern of the front part. The classic model of straight trousers with or without darts can be changed due to design changes in the basic cut.

Adding folds

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Deeper pleats on trousers make the cut of the model looser and the fit more comfortable. Things become less strict. Folds are expanded in two ways.

Deepening the smaller pleat of standard trousers without darts

Cut the pattern along the center line (lobar). Leave the trouser line at the bottom unchanged.
Move the top of the structure to the desired distance. After expansion, the cut will take the shape of a cone - an indication that the fold has deepened.

Increasing the width of the folds of a model with darts

Cut out the drawing along the fractional direction. Reach the cut and form a cone-shaped cut at waist level.
Mark the second fold line, which should consist of an initial dart and an additional recess.
Place the fold.
Stepping back 2.5 cm towards the side seam, mark the second fold.
Unfold the large fold. Cut the pattern 10 cm down from the second fold mark. The action is performed diagonally to the hip line and without touching it.
Extend the cut by 2 cm. Mark another fold.
Place the folds. Align the waist level to the side. Don't forget about allowances.

Changing the width of trouser parts

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The legs of the products can be either widened or narrowed. In this case, one should take into account the correspondence of their cut to the cut of the waist part. Narrow or wide legs determine the freedom of fit of the hips, as well as the style of the product. If the trouser legs of the product are narrowed, you should ensure that your leg can pass through them (provided that the sock is extended). When expanding from the knee and below, it is necessary to remember about the uniformity between the step and side seam of each part. Then the fractional line will not be distorted. The seams that appear during the modeling process are aligned from the bottom to the mark at which the width began to change.

How to start expansion

Select an arbitrary point on the side seam from the knee to the level of the hips.
Marking a certain point on the crotch seam in the interval from the knee level to the top seam mark. The expansion start mark on the side seam should be located higher than the similar point on the step seam.
By expanding the main cut along the entire length.

Algorithm for changing the width of parts

On the front part, mark the level of the knee.
On the bottom line, mark ¼ of the variable width.
Draw a new seam line on the side from the bottom straight line to the flare point.
Note a similar change on the crotch seam along the knee and bottom lines.
Carry out a new direction of the crotch seam.
Draw the same straight lines on the back half of the structure.

Extension of the product along the entire length

A model that is wide along its entire length is called “pajama”. The style is also credited with naming the style of film star Marlene Dietrich. The product may have a zipper and soft folds in the waist area, or may be fitted with an elastic band.
Cut the front and back parts along the fold.
Spread the patterns to the desired width, tracking its changes at hip level.
Mark the desired width of the knee and bottom levels. For this purpose, a method of constructing a pattern is used, characteristic of tapered trousers.
If the expansion is large, increase the dart opening at the waist. Draw new cutting directions for both halves.
The product is usually equipped with a belt with an elastic band sewn into it. The waist part is sewn after combining both parts of the pattern with side cuts from the bottom line to hip level.
Raise the single top line to a distance of twice the width of the future channel for the elastic band. The model is cut without seams on the sides and has no darts.
The style may contain a cut-off belt, which is cut only for the front part. An elastic band is threaded into it at the back, and reinforced at the front with a standard seam typical for stitching. The central clasp is located at the front. This model cannot do without machine stitching on the sides.

Shortening the length of the product

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Cropped trouser models or shorts are obtained by reducing the length. The minimum length of shorts depends on the distance that starts at the step line and ends at the very bottom. Usually it is 4 cm.

Shortening the item to shorts

On the front part of the cut, clarify the hem line.
Measure the length of the front side edge. Place the resulting value on the side of the rear half.
Proceed in the same way with step cuts.
If the fit of the product along the hips is planned to be tight, the central seam of the back should be lengthened.

Ways to change the pattern of a wide model

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You can also model straight trousers that are slightly wider at the bottom. The pattern of such a product is constructed according to the calculations underlying the drawing of the basic model. In this case, the side and step cuts are made straight.

For a wide model, a stitched belt is made. The upper parts of the front and rear panels are shortened by half its length.

Progress

Completely or partially close the waist set-in folds and extend them to the bottom.
Reduce the tuck opening of the front panel by 1/3.
Move the remaining length of the solution closer to the side cut.
Move one dart of the back half to the center, and the second to the side.
Project 1/3 of the solution onto the lower extension of the product. Use the remaining amount for planting, which will be located in the belt area.
This cut became the basis for creating products with cuffs that end the legs. You can use it to sew wide cropped trousers and bell-shaped shorts.

Changing the waist part

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The classic straight model of trousers with darts can be fitted with an elastic band that will pass through the sewn-in channel - the drawstring. The elastic band relieves the waist from the pressure of the cut-off belt.

Sew in a drawstring

Duplicate the basic pattern of the model, not paying attention to the darts and the cut for the future fastener.
From the widest part of the hips, draw a straight line upward to waist level. The width of the structure in this place should exceed the waist circumference.
Having risen above the waistline, set aside the width of the elastic, taking into account an allowance of 2 cm. On top you will get a facing with a drawstring, into which the elastic tape will be threaded. If the width of the elastic is 2.5 cm, the width of the facing will be 7 cm. It is important to ensure that the edges of the front and back facings match.
Finish the cuts and turn the facing inside out. Half of the entire width should go inside.
Sew the part and thread the rubber band into the drawstring.

Constructive change in the cut of the trousers

The cut of the legs determines the stylistic change in the model. They can not only be narrowed or widened, but also made wedge-shaped. The basis of flared trousers is the standard construction of skinny trousers.

Draw a flare line

Calculate the difference between the width of the bottom of the trouser legs and the desired width of the future wedge. Divide this value in half. Place the resulting value from the edges of the bottom of both panels.
Extend the knee lines of the two halves by 1.5 cm. Combine the resulting marks with new marks along the bottom of the construction.
If the flare should start from the knee and be sharp, an increase of 1.5 cm should not be made. A sharp flare is cut with cut-off details that fall on the knee line. The trouser hem is cut out in the form of cones.
The smoothness of the flare is given by moving the knee line up at a distance of 3-5 cm.

Changing the fit of the product

The result of changing the fit of trouser models is a product, the waist part of which falls to the level of the hips. The low-rise style is a variation of the flared model. Such a thing does not have a belt itself: the top is decorated with facings, cut out separately.
Fold the darts on the front and back halves.
From the center to the side seams, front and back, draw parallels to the top edge. The lines are drawn at a distance of 6-7 cm from the edge.
There will be facings along the top. The fragments from which they consist are duplicated on transparent paper. In this case, the course of the lobar, middle and other threads is taken into account.
The facing parts are cut out from the main fabric and lining material.

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Women's trousers are designed according to the same principles as models for men. Separately, they highlight the principle of modeling products for pregnant women, which are based on the same basic patterns. The waist circumference of such a model must be adjustable.

Oddly enough, there is no more feminine model than trousers with tucks in the modern fashion world. They charmingly emphasize the roundness of the hips and visually reduce the waist. But due to the peculiarities of the cut, this style is not suitable for every beautiful lady, and therefore stylists will reveal the secrets of choosing and assembling such a fashionable item.

About an originally male model in a female interpretation

What are women's trousers with pintucks? Initially, these were wide trousers with a standard waist line and pintucks located exactly under the belt. Their style was completely borrowed from the men's wardrobe. But, thanks to the efforts of designers, they have changed significantly. First of all, the transformation affected the cut of the trousers. In the photos of fashion collections there are both wide and narrowed models. The narrowing itself can occur starting from the middle of the thigh or the area from the knee to the ankles. Further changes affected the location of the waistline. Initially this was a standard position, but fashion trends offer fashionistas high- and low-rise models.

But the most dramatic transformations affected the main characteristics of such pants. At the time of their appearance in women's collections, these were trousers with two tucks under the belt in the front. Nowadays, not only the location of tucks varies, but also their number. They can be located at the waist or hips even with a standard belt fit. Their number starts from a classic parallel pair of tucks and ends with a kind of cascade, creating the impression of wraparound trousers.

As for the length of the trouser legs, in this case the stylists have established a certain taboo - it cannot be higher than 7/8 of the standard length. Otherwise, the beautiful lady risks getting... But its maximum value is not limited by designers, especially if these are wide trousers with tucks, for which the length is set to “floor-length”.

The range of materials from which such trousers are made is also varied. It can be silk, knitwear, chiffon, wool and others. The main thing is that they create the effect of flowing lines, which is formed by tucks.

As for the color palette of such trousers, in this case priority is given to plain models. At the same time, judging by the photos of fashion collections, any color scheme is used - blue, green, purple, red, burgundy. The exception is the classic patterns - check, herringbone and houndstooth.

Selection Basics

It should be remembered that trousers with pintucks look beautiful only on thin ladies with a flat stomach. At the same time, the height of the beauties does not matter: if necessary, the image can be easily adjusted with high-heeled or wedge shoes.

Stylists' recommendations for choosing the style of trousers in question for overweight ladies differ significantly. If the volume is determined by the overly appetizing buttocks, characteristic of the “Pear” silhouette, then beauty experts recommend choosing models with a high waist, which will visually reduce it. They, like the Hourglass, should take a closer look at such a variety as trousers with pintucks on the hips. Moreover, for both types of silhouettes, it is recommended to choose pants in which the tucks will be less pronounced and located one on each side.

And, lastly, stylists hold in particular esteem trousers with pintucks that taper along the length of the trouser legs. At the bottom they may have a lapel or a kind of “accordion”. Such models should only be purchased by tall ladies and only after preliminary fitting, because this particular cut significantly reduces height and “stretches” the silhouette, especially in the hip area.

Secrets of picking

In many ways, what to wear with this style depends on which particular model the beautiful lady chose. Conventionally, images can be divided into those that are formed with narrowed or wide options.

Thus, it is recommended to combine wide trousers with tucks with semi-tight and tight-fitting shirts, turtlenecks, thin sweaters, long sleeves and tops. They should be at least partially tucked into the waistband of your pants. The features of a beautiful lady’s figure will help determine the degree of “tucking”: ladies with curvy figures should completely hide the bottom of the top item of clothing. If necessary, a thin belt will help to enhance the contrast between the hips and waist.

In addition, do not forget about outerwear and proper shoes. When it comes to outerwear, look experts recommend turning to cardigans and jackets with hems that fall to mid-thigh. Short and short coats would be appropriate. As for shoes, they can be anything: shoes, boots, ankle boots or sandals. Regarding the height of the heel, stylists agree on one thing: the fuller the woman, the higher the heel should be.

Tapered trousers with pintucks should be paired with semi-tight or loose blouses made from airy satin and chiffon fabrics. However, in this case it would be appropriate to complement the look with a thin sweater or sweatshirt made, for example, from cashmere. Stylists recommend creating multi-layer sets by combining the listed packaging options. The only thing they insist on is that the upper part of the outfit must be tucked into the belt at least halfway or left with a soft smack over the waistband of the trousers. In this case, a masculine cut, loose jacket would be appropriate as outerwear. But this option is suitable exclusively for slender, somewhat thin girls. For everyone else, short coats with strict lines, biker jackets, jackets or cropped jackets are recommended.

As for the choice of shoes, in this case fashion observers recommend choosing high-heeled models. These could be sandals or shoes. Ankle boots are allowed, but only those of a model that do not cover the tapered part of the trouser legs, for example, those with high lacing in the front.

In conclusion, it remains to be noted that, if desired and correctly selected and completed, trousers with pintucks, which are so risky in their stylistic vision, can become an excellent basis for creating elegant looks.

Question. Hello! Please help me with a trousers pattern for a girl, I'm new to this. Thanks a lot.

Answer. Unfortunately, there are no ready-made part templates for this model, but even for a beginner it won’t be too difficult to do the modeling yourself.

This model is narrowed at the bottom. You can independently set the desired width of the trousers at the bottom. Please note that the width at the bottom of the front of the trousers is less than the width at the back.

Back width at the bottom = 1/2 Pants width at the bottom + (1...2 cm)

The width of the front at the bottom = 1/2 the width of the trousers at the bottom - (1...2 cm).

Then mark the position of the yoke line and cut off the part. If the design includes a dart, then close it and open it along the yoke line.

Then we outline auxiliary lines - lines of folds along which we will spread the part conically.

Counter folds are located along the line of the middle of the part, and one-sided ones are next to each other. You can experiment on the fabric by making folds of different depths, but not less than 3 cm.

We cut and separate the part along the marked lines. The amount of dilation is equal to twice the depth of the fold, i.e. if the fold is 5 cm deep, then we spread it by 10 cm. We have two folds along the center line, so we spread it by 20 cm.

Hello, dear readers of the Sprint-Response website. Today on our calendars is Sunday, November 5, 2017. We are solving the quiz “Attention, question!” again. Today in the quiz we are talking about trousers and their type. We need to tell you the name of trousers that have pleats at the waist. The correct answer is highlighted in blue and bold, and here is the question itself.

What are trousers called that have pleats at the waist?

This stylish style of trousers came to our wardrobes from the army of the United States of America and quickly gained a foothold in it. They look deliberately careless - slightly wrinkled, made of natural fabric (cotton or linen), and have folds at the waist. This is an excellent choice for the summer. Classic chinos are made in 4 shades - khaki, beige, olive and blue.

It is generally accepted (if you believe the “legend”) that trousers of this type are based on the uniform of the English colonial troops, used in hot and tropical countries. For these trousers, a light sand-colored fabric was used, which was called "Chinese", hence the name "chinos".

"Culottes"
"Bananas"
"Chinos"

As you may have guessed, the correct answer is third on the list of options: Chinos.