Dangerous and controversial components in cosmetics. The most harmful substances in cosmetics. Hair structure and types

OP.06 Fundamentals of materials science

Practical lesson No. 3 (2 hours).

Subject: Prohibited raw materials.

Target: Learn to identify and determine the influence of prohibited and harmful raw materials.

1. Fill out the table.

Below is a list of the main ingredients, the use of which is prohibited or restricted in most countries, give them a brief description.

2. What preservatives are used in the makeup base of concern “N”: water, homomenthyl salicylate, butylene glycol, glycerin, PEG-8, dimethicone, tromethamine, cetyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, glyceryl stearate, fragrance, hydrogenated lecithin, carbomer, methylparaben, propylparaben, disodium salt, sodium chloride, nipagin, propylene glycol, butylparaben, ethylparaben, tocopherol, bronopol, isobutylparaben.

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Analyze the composition of the makeup base and what harmful raw materials you found:

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3. Analyze the composition of nourishing cream “L” for dry and sensitive skin: water, soybean oil, emulsion wax, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, oat extract, triethanolamine, methylparaben, propylparaben, perfume composition.

Fill the table.

4. At an appointment with a cosmetologist, the client complains after using the “Start” nourishing cream of itching, peeling, red spots in the face and neck, as well as headaches and worsening mood. What raw materials in the cream could cause such side effects: water, glycerin, liquid paraffin, wheat germ oil, myristyl myristate, petrolatum, lanolin, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, isopropyl myristate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-20 glycol, papaya extract, hexachlorphene, cocoa butter, propylene glycol, dimethicone, methylparaben, tocopherol, amber musk, geraniol.

Fill the table.

Ingredient name	Function in a cosmetic product	Impact on the body

5. Conclude:

What types of raw materials are used in cosmetic production?

For what purpose are natural preservatives added to cosmetic preparations?

Additional reading: handouts.

Handout

Requirements for raw materials

In cosmetic production, various types of raw materials are used: vegetable oils, waxes, medicinal plant extracts, vitamins, antioxidants, silicones, enzymes, etc. The need for careful selection of raw materials for the preparation of perfumery and cosmetic products is dictated by the significant environmental load that our skin and hair bear. Due to the introduction of a huge number of chemical compounds into production, cases of undesirable reactions to cosmetic products have become more frequent: allergic, contact dermatitis, photodermatitis, etc., therefore the first requirement for cosmetics is its safety. It's not so scary if the cream or shampoo turns out to be ineffective. It is much worse when they cause unwanted reactions, accelerate aging, and damage the skin or hair. All raw materials in cosmetic products must be safe and must not contain harmful impurities, substances damaging skin cells, allergens, microbes and their toxins, products of peroxidation of fats and oils, preservatives and aromatic substances that destroy the epidermal barrier, heavy metals, nitrates, radionucleotides. All components must be compatible with each other and must not cause antagonism.

Harmful raw materials

The Independent International Society of Cosmetic Chemists issues lists of substances excluded from the list of permitted cosmetic ingredients at least twice a year. If any information is found about the adverse effects of their use, they are included in the “black list” of ingredients prohibited in cosmetics.

Below is a list of the main ingredients, the use of which forbidden or limited in most countries.

Amber musk can be used as a fragrance in perfumes, as well as in any cosmetic preparations. Causes photosensitization of the skin, has neurotoxicity, i.e. can affect the nervous system: severe headaches and what experts call behavioral disturbances appear: severe irritability, worsening mood, impaired coordination of movements, etc.

Vinyl chloride - the main component of aerosols, solvent. Well absorbed through the skin. Has neurotoxicity. Carcinogen.

Hexachlorphene - preservative Can be used in any cosmetic products, most often in emulsion creams. Well absorbed through the skin. Has neurotoxicity.

Diokan - carcinogen. Particularly dangerous for the liver, penetrates well through the skin. Contained in some ethoxylated surfactants, which are designated PEG on the label. May be found in shampoos, shower gels, bubble baths and other body and hair care products.

Nitrosamines - carcinogens. Particularly dangerous for the liver, penetrates well through the skin. Nitrosamines are not specifically included in cosmetics, but in preparations containing amines (triethanolamine and other emulsifiers of this series), they can be formed if the shelf life and production technology are violated. In addition, the process of formation of nitrosamines can be triggered by the presence of ingredients containing impurities in the formulations.

Substances from the amine group can be used as emulsifiers in any cosmetic product. Most often they are included in nourishing creams. These substances can be recognized on the label by the ending amin.

Zirconium derivatives used in cosmetics in aerosol packaging, hair products. Have a toxic effect on the lungs.

Mercury and its derivatives used in whitening products and cosmetics for eyelid skin care. A strong allergen, has a neurotoxic effect, and has a tendency to cumulate (accumulate in the body). If derivatives are used, then the permitted concentration should not exceed 0.006% in terms of pure mercury.

6-methylcumri used as a fragrance and scent fixer in perfumes. Increases skin sensitivity to ultraviolet radiation - up to photodermatitis and severe systemic disorders. Not recommended for use in sunscreen or anti-tanning products.

To avoid the appearance on sale of products with dangerous ingredients, our country has introduced annual certification of cosmetic products and production. You should purchase cosmetic products only in special stores or sections, beauty salons, at professional sales exhibitions - where you can be presented with all the necessary documents and given qualified advice on the properties and use of certain drugs.

Propylene glycol – has been used in cosmetics for a long time as a skin moisturizer, but now, as a result of research, scientists have established that it is able to dissolve intercellular cement in the stratum corneum of the epidermis and reduce the adhesion force between corneocytes, resulting in loss of moisture and, as a consequence, progressive skin aging. Scientists have also proven that propylene glycol has a toxic effect on living cells.

Sodium lauryl sulfate – surfactant, has a strong cleaning and foaming ability. Formulations containing this raw material component are dermatologically unfavorable due to their irritating and degreasing effect on the skin. In addition, there is experimental data on the toxicity of this substance. Sodium lauryl sulfate, together with dirt, removes epidermal lipids, which leads to skin irritation, dandruff, and hair brittle.

Do you know that: You can judge the amount of a raw material component introduced into a cosmetic product by the place it occupies in the list given on the packaging - the closer the raw material component is to the beginning, the more there is.

Preservatives

One of the main requirements for modern drugs is their resistance to pathogenic microbes. Most cream compositions are excellent nutritional mixtures that are beneficial not only for skin cells, but also for the development of microorganisms. And since the environment around us is saturated with various strains of bacteria and fungal spores, to preserve the quality of cosmetic preparations, substances called bacteriostatics or preservatives.

Preservatives solve one of the main problems in cosmetics - the problem of protecting products from spoilage and maintaining their shelf life. By the way, this period, according to international standards, should be 2.5 years.

Another purpose of using preservatives is to kill bacteria and fungi directly on the skin.

The problem is that in order to destroy microbial cells, the preservative must be toxic, and, therefore, it can also be toxic to skin cells. The main negative qualities of preservatives are their ability to deprive the skin of natural microflora and cause allergic reactions. In addition, many preservatives greatly slow down skin regeneration processes. And if young organisms are somehow able to cope with this, then for those who are over 35 years old, this is a serious problem, since it leads to progressive aging of the skin. Therefore, preservatives are often called “the main enemies of the skin, which you cannot do without.”

Most often, chemically synthesized substances or antibiotics (literally, opponents of life) are used as preservatives: nipazole, nipagin, a number of parabens (butylparaben, methylparaben, ethylparaben...), phenoxyethanol, ethyl alcohol, ionol, oxypyridine, etc.

Preservatives are dangerous: formalin (leads to progressive aging of the skin), bronopol (can lead to the formation of mutagenic substances).

Any cream composition contains preservatives, but advertising brochures and annotations usually do not disclose the amount of preservatives used. This can be judged by indirect signs, which were already discussed earlier, and in this regard it is necessary to adhere to some rules for purchasing cosmetics.

♦ Give preference to cosmetics with a small hole. The wider the neck of the jar, the greater the contact with the environment, and therefore the more preservatives there are in the cream.

♦ Pay attention to the expiration date and storage conditions of the drugs. The longer the shelf life and the higher the storage temperature, the more preservative is added to its composition.

♦ And most importantly, store cream compositions in a cool place, tightly closed.

NB: The safest ones are undoubtedly the natural substances found naturally in some plants (sodium benzonate, salicylates, vitamins E and C...). Widely known for their bactericidal properties are propolis (bee glue), extracts of eucalyptus leaves, bird cherry, birch, black currant, pine bark extract, seaweed extract, and many essential oils.

The introduction of these substances into the formulation allows you to reduce the concentration of preservatives and make the cream safer for the skin, so, most likely, the future of cosmetics lies with them.

But natural preservatives also have their drawbacks - too mild a bacteriostatic effect, requiring the use of fairly high doses, and narrow specialization (blocks the growth of bacteria, but does not prevent fungi from living and vice versa).

Related information.

Content

Before purchasing a jar of miracle cream or shampoo, carefully check its composition! Some components should not be part of cosmetics, as they are not only useless, but also often harmful.

Numerous beauty ingredients included in branded cosmetic products have expensive production technology, require large material and physical costs, and a priori cannot be cheap. A jar of face cream with black caviar will never cost less than the delicacy itself.

There is a widespread belief that popular brands produce only high-quality cosmetics. It seems that if a cosmetics concern is famous and produces large volumes of products, then it produces high quality cosmetics. But advertising requires a lot of financial investment, which could be used to improve the composition of cosmetics! Paying a celebrity to represent a product, paying an advertising agency, running a large-scale promotion costs a lot of money. When buying advertised cosmetics, you pay more than half for advertising, beautiful packaging, and the services of designers and intermediaries. Thus, the cost of the contents of a jar of cream from a well-known brand and from a little advertised company is almost the same.

Good for skin...

Jojoba extract. In modern cosmetology, the jojoba plant is often used for face and body lifting. This ingredient is often included in lip glosses and shampoos. The birthplace of the evergreen jojoba shrub is Tibet, North America. It has the official beautiful name Simmondsia chinensis, although it has nothing to do with China. Nuts from this bush are used in cosmetology; they look like peach seeds. Jojoba nuts are processed by cold pressing to obtain jojoba oil, which is similar to liquid wax. This substance is responsible for the elasticity of the skin and is resistant to rancidity.

Jojoba oil is mixed with various essential oils to create a cream. The magical effect of such a cream is due to the content of amino acids, which are close in composition to the wax esters of sebum. This cream recreates collagen in the skin, has a bright anti-aging effect, gives the skin radiance and youth. The cosmetic value of jojoba has been scientifically proven.

Pearl shine. Pearl extract is often used for cosmetic and pharmaceutical purposes. Pearls specially grown in lakes and rivers are turned into pearl powder, which consists of 90% calcium carbonate. Pearl powder contains glutamic, aspartic acids, glycine, alanine, and methione. For the first time, the healing properties of pearl powder were appreciated in China and Japan. Nowadays, pearl powder is also used by pharmaceutical concerns, adding it to wound-healing ointments. For osteoporosis and weakened immunity, it is recommended to take dietary supplements based on pearl powder. Pearl extract promotes deeper penetration of other active substances into the skin layers. Sometimes cosmetic products contain biogold and diamond chips as an additive to the main ingredients.

Silk shampoo. In the cosmetics industry, silk powder is often used, obtained by grinding the fibers of the silkworm cocoon. Silk powder contains many useful substances: glycine, alanine, serine. As part of the shampoo, these active substances are easily absorbed by the scalp and hair follicles. The skin is moisturized, metabolism is improved, and tissue restoration occurs. Forming a film on the surface of the hair, it retains moisture and adds shine.

Grape seeds. To give the skin smoothness, elasticity, and fight cellulite, grape seed extract is added to cosmetic products. Using the water-alcohol extraction method, it is concentrated, dried and a brownish powder with a pungent odor and taste is obtained. Grape extract contains organic acids, flavonoids, carbohydrates, has an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, astringent effect, and perfectly strengthens capillaries. It is an excellent anti-cellulite product and saves dry skin from dehydration.

Green tea. To improve the elasticity of blood vessels, cosmetologists use green tea extract. It contains antioxidants, caffeine, amino acids, which tone the skin, giving it smoothness and elasticity. Its antibacterial property is valued by dentists and they recommend toothpastes with green tea extract. Caffeine is a great tonic both inside and out. After using the coffee scrub for several hours, you will not leave feeling invigorated and light.

Lotus. Some cosmetic products contain lotus extract - a flower of unearthly beauty. It is noteworthy that from 10 kg of lotus flowers only 1 kg of valuable powder is obtained! Flavonoids, alkaloids, peptides and organic acids have an invaluable effect on the skin. Lotus extract will help stop bleeding, whiten skin, and get rid of petechiae.

Harmful to the skin...

In the production of cosmetics, in addition to plant ingredients, components of animal origin and synthetic additives are used. Unlike plant extracts, components of animal and synthetic origin, in addition to benefits, are harmful to our beauty and health.

Mineral oil. This product, “valuable” for our beauty, is obtained from petroleum products, is used in industry to lubricate parts and engines, and in chemical production is used as a solvent. When applied to the skin, it creates a dense film that not only prevents moisture from evaporating, but also traps toxins and carbon dioxide on the surface of the skin. The skin stops breathing, its renewal process is delayed, it becomes dry, lifeless, dull. Such cosmetics can cause acne even in older women!

Propylene glycol. This petroleum product is famous for its moisturizing properties and is widely used in moisturizing creams. Its cost is much less than glycerin, which makes the cosmetic product cheaper. However, propylene glycol often causes allergies, skin irritation, and acne. Why should you still avoid it?

Propylene glycol creates an impenetrable film on the skin that prevents breathing, nourishes the skin, and contributes to its thinning
This substance binds fluid, displacing water from skin cells
Doctors talk about the connection between propylene glycol and disorders of the liver and kidneys

Sodium Laurel Sulfate (SLS). Not a single shower gel, shampoo, hair conditioner, or bath foam is complete without this ingredient. In industrial production, this substance is used in floor cleaning liquids to degrease surfaces. It perfectly removes grease from any surface. Leading clinics in the world use Laurel sodium sulfate as a skin irritant. Scientists have proven that SLS can penetrate the human body - the brain, heart, eyes, and accumulate in the liver. Laurel sodium sulfate creates a film on the surface of the skin and hair that is difficult to wash off and is irritating. After regular use of this shampoo, my hair will become brittle, dull, begin to fall out, become thinner, and dandruff will appear. Manufacturers' claims that their sodium laurel sulfate is natural and derived from coconuts are completely contrary to reality.

Sodium loreth sulfate (Sles). An ingredient similar to the one described above, which is also often used in the production of shampoos and hair products.
It is inexpensive, so manufacturers do not skimp on it. The salt in sodium loret sulfate makes it thicker; upon contact with water, a lush, thick foam is created, but has weak cleaning properties.

Glycerol. Traditionally, glycerin is considered an excellent humectant. This “useful” component of cosmetic products is obtained by combining water and fat, resulting in smaller molecules. The resulting fatty acids and glycerol improve the penetration of cosmetics and prevent moisture from evaporating from the skin surface. Scientists have proven that if the air humidity in the room is less than 65%, glycerin draws liquid not only from the air, but also from the skin. The skin becomes drier and the moisturizing properties of glycerin are questioned.

Myths about cosmetics

Myth 1: High-quality cosmetics contain special ingredients that are indispensable for our beauty.

Collagen. Manufacturers vied with each other to praise collagen: it moisturizes the skin, improves the structure of the skin, and nourishes the deep layers of the epidermis. Collagen, like a mesh frame, supports the structure of our skin, making it remain smooth and perfectly even. With age, everything wears out and the necessary collagen is destroyed, the skin becomes thinner and wrinkled. So should we have high hopes for collagen?

Collagen molecules are large, which makes it difficult to penetrate into the layers of the skin. Collagen creates a dense film on the surface, preventing the skin from breathing
Collagen is of animal origin - it is obtained from the skin epithelium of cattle, therefore such collagen cannot be properly absorbed by the skin of the face
The body perceives collagen injections as a foreign body and rejects it, therefore, to maintain the result, you must regularly visit a cosmetologist

Elastin. Many manufacturers add elastin to skin and hair care products. As the skin ages, elastin molecules no longer hold onto skin cells and wrinkles form. Elastin added to anti-aging creams helps restore skin structure. In any case, that's what the manufacturers say. But elastin is of animal origin, consists of large molecules and is not able to penetrate the layers of the skin. Elastin, which is close in chemical composition to human and can penetrate skin cells, is called desmosine. But its use greatly increases the cost of the finished product, so manufacturers rarely produce cosmetics with “healing” elastin.

Hyaluronic acid. This beauty ingredient can be of both plant and animal origin and is used to fill fine wrinkles and as a mask for skin rejuvenation. To achieve results, it is necessary to use the acid in a low-molecular form - this way the molecules easily penetrate the skin cells. This is why hyaluronic acid injections are so effective. Creams, masks, lotions contain a high-molecular form of acid, which is not able to penetrate into the deep layers of the skin, but remains on its surface. The content of hyaluronic acid in cosmetic products is negligible, which refutes their miraculous properties.

Liposomes. Liposomes are artificially produced closed bubbles filled with water and various fats. Cosmetologists believe that they are able to nourish skin cells with moisture. Recent studies prove that the chemical composition of liposomes is identical to the composition of cell membranes, that is, there can be no talk of any rejuvenation. Moisturizing creams with liposomes will never be able to saturate aging skin with moisture.

Placenta extracts. The placenta is the membrane in which the embryo grows and develops. It feeds through the placenta, and it is believed that the skin of the face can also receive nutrition and beneficial substances with placenta-based creams. But the embryo receives everything it needs through the umbilical cord, and the lifeless placenta itself has no value. The nutritional and rejuvenating properties of the placenta are in great doubt, because its composition is difficult to study and control.

Royal jelly. The substance produced by worker bees is collected from hives and given miraculous properties. According to rumors, royal jelly rejuvenates the skin, smoothes wrinkles, and saturates it with useful substances. It has been proven that after 2 weeks of storage, the most valuable substance completely loses its “rejuvenating” qualities. Royal jelly is useless for humans; it does not have any special effect.

Before replenishing your cosmetic supplies, you should take a close look at your potential purchase. It is important to remember that in addition to benefits, almost any cosmetic product can also cause harm. Let every new jar of cream, shampoo, lotion bring pleasure and increase beauty!

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Harmful ingredients are not introduced into cosmetics. The Independent International Society of Cosmetic Chemists issues lists of substances excluded from the list of permitted cosmetic ingredients at least twice a year. If any information is found about the adverse effects of their use, they are included in the “black list” of ingredients prohibited in cosmetics.

Below is a list of key ingredients that are banned or restricted in most countries.

Vinshchloride- the main component of aerosols, solvent. Well absorbed through the skin. Has neurotoxicity. Carcinogen.

Hexachlorphene- preservative. Can be used in any cosmetic products, most often in emulsion creams. Well absorbed through the skin. Has neurotoxicity.

Diokan- carcinogen. Particularly dangerous for the liver, penetrates well through the skin. Contained in some ethoxylated surfactants, which are designated PEG on the label. May be found in shampoos, shower gels, bubble baths and other body and hair care products.

Nitrosamines - carcinogens. Particularly dangerous for the liver, penetrates well through the skin. Nitrosamines are not specifically included in cosmetics, but in preparations containing amines (triethanolamine and other emulsifiers of this series), they can be formed if the shelf life and production technology are violated. In addition, the process of formation of nitrosamines can be triggered by the presence of ingredients containing impurities in the formulations.

Zirconium derivatives used in cosmetics in aerosol packaging, hair products. Have a toxic effect on the lungs.

Control questions

1. Name the disadvantages of animal fats.

2. How do vegetable oils differ from animal oils?

3. What substances are structure-forming?

4. Tell us about the purpose of emulsifiers.

5. What effect do silicones have on hair?

6. Tell us about the mechanisms of action of moisturizing substances.

7. Name the side effects of petroleum products on skin and hair.

8. For what purpose are vitamins and microelements added to cosmetic raw materials?

9. What are the requirements for water as the main component of perfumes and cosmetics?

SECTION II

PREPARATIONS FOR HAIR AND SCALP CARE

Chapter 3

HAIR STRUCTURE AND TYPES

3.1. Hair structure

3.2. Hair types

Hair structure

Hair consists of two parts - permanent and temporary. Permanent part - This hair follicle, which produces hair, and the temporary part is itself hair. Hair growth occurs due to the proliferation of cells in the lower part of the follicle - the hair follicle. The collection of these cells is called matrix The hair follicle is approached by blood vessels that nourish the hair and nerve endings, thanks to which the hair can stand on end. The levator pili muscle is attached to the hair shaft (Fig. I).

Rice. 1. Diagram of the structure of the hair root:

1 - hair bag; 2 - epithelial vagina; 3 - dermis of the skin; 4 - epidermis; 5 - hair cortex; 6 - medulla; 7 - hair cuticle; 8 - sebaceous gland; 9 - muscle that lifts the hair; 10 - matrix cells; 11 - hair papilla

The hair shaft has three layers: the medulla, the cortex and the cuticle.

Core - a soft spongy substance consisting of large cells with a keratin-like substance. This layer contains air bubbles. Through the core, like through a water pipe, nutrients rise into the hair.

Cortex consists of glued spindle-shaped keratinized cells. The cells of the cortex are filled with threads of horny substance - keratin. Keratin gives hair strength.

Cuticle - a layer of flat keratinized cells containing keratin, imbricated over each other. Cuticle keratin is tougher than cortical keratin. The hair is wrapped in the cuticle, like a high-voltage cable in a winding. The cuticle protects hair from water and mechanical damage, and also provides both flexibility and strength. If the hair is in good condition, then the keratin scales are pressed against the hair shaft and lie flat, reflecting light and giving shine to the hair.

The sebaceous glands of the scalp secrete natural lubricant for the hair. Perm and bleaching, poor diet and stress lead to a decrease in lubrication. Hair becomes dry and brittle. On the other hand, nervous overload and hormonal surges can cause excessive oily scalp, which, in turn, can lead to oily seborrhea.

Hair has certain properties, such as texture, porosity, density, and hygroscopicity.

Texture hair is determined by the diameter of the strands. Coarse hair has a large diameter of hair strands, medium hair has a medium diameter, and fine hair has a small diameter of hair strands. In thin hair, melanin is distributed more compactly, as a result of which thin hair is dyed faster and the color is more saturated. Accordingly, coarse hair, having a thick diameter, requires more time to dye, since the melanin molecules are not placed so tightly in them. Hair with a medium structure is dyed in accordance with the normal reaction of the hair to the acting pigment.

Porosity hair is characterized by its ability to absorb liquids. There are three degrees of hair porosity.

With low porosity, the hair is moisture resistant, the cuticle is dense, as a result of which moisture and chemical compounds penetrate into it poorly, and the hair requires longer processing.

With medium porosity, the cuticle is slightly raised, the hair is normal and dyeing requires an average duration of treatment.

In hair with high porosity, the cuticle is greatly raised, the hair quickly becomes colored, but also fades quickly.

Growth density or hair density, can also vary from sparse to thick.

Hygroscopicity- the ability of hair to absorb moisture (up to a third of its mass). Hair absorbs steam, water, and fats well, and under the influence of moisture it easily changes its shape - this property is actively used when curling hair in curlers and during cold styling.

Hair types

Hair- this is a protein fiber growing from the follicle - the hair follicle. Hair is born, grows and dies, but only the roots are alive.

In humans, there are three types of hair: hair itself (long, mature); bristly hair (hair from eyelashes, eyebrows, mustache, hair in the nose, on the genitals); vellus hair (thin, uncolored hair that covers most of the skin).

Hair buds form in the fetus at the end of the 2nd and beginning of the 3rd month of intrauterine development. As they grow, new primary rudiments appear between existing ones. The first vellus hair falls out about a month before giving birth. The second, shorter vellus hair (lanugo) falls out during the first 3 to 4 months, with the exception of the scalp. Subsequently, a non-synchronous pattern of hair growth is established. Infants often lose hair in the occipital area, which many associate either with the development of rickets or with excessive friction against the pillow. However, it has now been proven that this phenomenon is connected with the fact that by the time of birth, hair renewal occurs in the occipital region, and if this renewal is somewhat delayed, a temporary focus of baldness occurs.

The first two to three years of life in children, vellus hair predominates, but then, after the next change, thicker and well-pigmented hair, called intermedial hair, appears on the scalp.

At the beginning of puberty, intermedial hair is replaced by terminal hair, which may have a different color and shape than the hair of the previous generation.

Hair of all types is repeatedly replaced with a certain cyclicity. With age, the hair development cycle shortens, the hair itself becomes thinner, gradually loses pigment and strength, and grows more slowly. This does not apply to the growth of eyebrows and hair in the ear canal area in men; on the contrary, they are known to thicken significantly with age.

In addition to this principle of dividing hair into types, there is also a classification of hair types according to other criteria. Thus, hair is distinguished between normal, dry, oily and mixed.

Normal hair fit well and keep their shape and volume for a long time; the scales are tightly closed, the hair is soft, elastic, and has a healthy, vibrant shine.

Dry hair They are difficult to style because they have strong keratin fibers. Due to the weak functioning of the sebaceous glands, the hair does not receive natural lubrication, as a result of which it looks dull, faded, easily tangled, electrified, scattered and difficult to comb. Dryness can be caused by the wrong shampoo, frequent use of permanent hair, bleaching, constant coloring or prolonged exposure to the sun.

Greasy hair Unlike dry hair, on the contrary, they arise as a result of overly active work of the sebaceous glands, so they have the appearance of sticky, “greasy”, wet hair. It is difficult to regulate the functioning of the sebaceous glands; it is easier to influence the hair from the outside: touch the hair less with your hands, do not use hot water when washing, dry your hair with a hairdryer in cold air mode, apply highlights all over your head.

Mixed hair type characterized by the presence of oily roots and dry ends. The reason for this may be improper hair care: using shampoo for oily hair, drying hair with hot air, washing too often.

In table 2 shows the main criteria by which you can determine your hair type.

Table 2. Criteria for determining hair type

Hair type	Washing frequency	Condition of hair roots	Condition of hair ends	Fullness of hair	Static (electrification)	Ability to install without special tools
Dry	Once every 6 - 7 days	Dry after washing, normal on days 3–4, oily on day 7	Dry, split ends, brittle	Often elevated, hair flying	Almost constant	They give in poorly
Normal	1 time every 2-3 days		Normal or dry, sometimes split ends	Satisfactory	Sharp	Easy to apply, provided the hair is not heavy
Fat	Every day	Oily by the end of the 1st day after washing	No split ends	Immediately after washing, satisfactory, on the 2nd day - fatty “icicles”	Almost absent	Give in easily, but not for long
Mixed (oily roots, dry ends)	Once every 3 – 4 days	Normal immediately after washing, oily by the end of the 3rd day	Dry, split ends	Satisfactory at the roots, ends scatter	Tips only	Amenable to root laying, but not for long

Control questions

1. Tell us about the structure of hair.

2. What properties does hair have?

3. On what basis are hair types classified?

4. Name the criteria by which dry, normal, oily and mixed hair types are determined.

Chapter 4

DETERGENTS

4.2. Shampoos

Soap

Soap- a complex product obtained by the interaction of natural fats or substitutes with sodium or potassium alkali. Suitable fats include all vegetable oils and all animal fats, as well as oils and fats of marine animals and fish. The technical indicator for soap is the percentage of fatty acids: from 40 to 70% in laundry soap and from 75 to 85 % - in the toilet.

Soap is classified according to its purpose, appearance, and characteristics of the technical process.

Boric soap, or boronothymol, belongs to medical grades of soap, has a bactericidal effect. Contains 0.1% boric acid, thymol - 0.5%.

Glycerin soap - solid toilet soap, contains glycerin in an amount of 2% as a softening and moisturizing additive.

Tar soap refers to medical grades of toilet soap. It is mainly used for washing hair against dandruff. Contains up to 5% distilled tar.

Baby soap forms a special assortment group. Its varieties are produced from high-quality raw materials and, as a rule, without fragrances or dyes. To protect delicate baby skin from irritation and for a disinfecting effect, up to 1% lanolin and up to 1% boric acid are introduced.

Liquid toilet soap is a transparent aqueous-alcoholic solution of scented potassium soap. Alcohol is used in liquid soap to reduce viscosity, ensure transparency, and lower the solidification temperature.

Green soap refers to medical grades of soap, is a greenish or dark brown mass obtained from the saponification of vegetable oils. Has high disinfectant properties.

Bar soap- a term used to characterize solid varieties of toilet or laundry soap. Bar soap can have a rectangular, oval or shaped shape, as well as a relief pattern; weight of bar soap - from 20 to 200 g.

Medical and cosmetic soap- toilet soap, used for medicinal and cosmetic purposes. In addition to its foaming washing ability, such soap can have a bactericidal effect, soften, protect and moisturize the skin. Depending on this, special additives can be phenol, boric acid, thymol, quinine, birch tar, etc.

Soap floating- toilet soap filled with air. Its density is below 1, so it floats on the surface of the water. Used when washing in a bath, river or sea.

Powdered soap obtained by spraying and drying sound soap in special dryers with heated air. The powder contains 85 - 86% fatty acids and is a semi-finished product for the production of soap powders for shaving and shampooing, as well as soap shavings for washing.

Soap transparent differs in appearance and composition. Main components: animal fat, coconut and castor oils, alcohol, sugar, glycerin, which delay the crystallization process. Transparent soap is recommended for washing normal to oily skin.

Soap with superfatting additives- toilet soap, in which lanolin, spermaceti, petroleum jelly, etc. are used as additives. Their purpose is to reduce the drying effect of alkalis present in the soap. These types of soap are recommended for dry sensitive skin.

Sulsen soap- medical grade toilet soap. Contains sulsen paste and is recommended for strengthening hair, against dandruff, and relieving itchy scalp.

Solid toilet soap intended for washing and hygienic care of the body. It has increased foaming ability, good solubility in hot and cold water, and a pleasant smell. High quality raw materials are used.

Laundry soap- a group of soaps intended for washing clothes, technical and other special purposes. Solid laundry soap is divided into several grades depending on the content of fatty acids. The best varieties (72 and 76%) have a light yellow color, with virtually no unpleasant odor. Varieties containing 60, 47 and 40% fatty acids have a darker color. The recipe for laundry soaps provides for the maximum use of fat waste and fat substitutes.

Depending on the content and concentration of fatty acids, soaps are classified as follows:

“Lux” grade - over 15% fatty acids;

1st grade - 15% fatty acids;

2nd grade - 10-12% fatty acids;

3rd grade - up to 10% fatty acids.

Soaps of the 1st grade and “Lux” grade have a mild cleaning effect, do not dry out or irritate the skin, and do not destroy the protective barrier. As auxiliary additives, zinc or titanium white, antiseptics, etc. are added to certain varieties.

Shampoos

The main components of shampoos and the principles of their action

Shampoo is a foaming cleanser for hair and scalp. Unlike alkaline soap, it has a neutral or slightly acidic pH. Shampoo is designed to remove oil and dead cells from the hair and scalp. Everything else is the function of conditioners, balms, anti-dandruff products, etc.

Evaluating a shampoo starts with smell, consistency and color. Traditional scent directions in hair products are fresh, sea, floral, green, fruity, fantasy and light oriental scents. Men's shampoos contain woody, tobacco, and leather notes. Baby shampoo should have a very gentle, warm, powdery, mild aroma.

After assessing the appearance of the shampoo, you need to pay attention to its consistency. It should not be too liquid, viscous, squeezed out in lumps or continuous threads. When squeezing shampoo out of a bottle or tube, the drop should be interrupted.

Pearlescent additives decorate the shampoo. Sometimes mother of pearl is used when the introduced components do not provide transparency to the product.

The turbidity created by the introduction of special opacifiers gives the effect of a “natural”, “filled” product. Sometimes a cloudy shampoo creates the effect of a creamy, soft, caring product.

The latest achievements are multi-colored suspended particles - micro- and macrospheres with a bioadditive, creating the effect of bubbles and confetti. In addition to aesthetic value, they ensure the safety of the dietary supplement.

Shampoo is a product consisting of several different components (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2. Main components of shampoos

The basis of any shampoo is detergent, consisting of surfactants - surfactants (surfactants).

Surfactants reduce the surface tension between water and grease particles, thus facilitating the removal of these particles and dirt; form foam and a suspension of dirt particles in the foam, preventing dirt from re-settling on the hair; stabilize other shampoo ingredients or maintain them in dissolved form; increase the viscosity of shampoos.

Surfactants are classified as follows:

anionic - in an aqueous solution they decompose to form negatively charged ions;

cationic - in an aqueous solution they decompose to form positive ions;

amphoteric - in an aqueous solution, depending on the pH of the environment, they can exhibit cationic (in an acidic environment pH less than 7) or anionic (in an alkaline environment pH more than 7) properties;

nonionic - do not form ions in an aqueous solution.

The cleaning effect is provided mainly anionic surfactants. The anionic surfactant molecule contains a water-soluble (hydrophilic) part, which is negatively charged, and a fat-soluble (hydrophobic) part, which is neutral. The fat-soluble part of the molecule binds and envelops dirt particles and sebaceous gland secretions. The water-soluble part of the molecule is oriented away from the hair, which carries a negative charge, as a result of which dirt particles connected to the surfactant are rejected by the hair, dissolved in water and removed.

Typical representatives of anionic surfactants are alkyl ether sulfate salts, which are obtained by sulfation of ethoxylated higher fatty alcohols with subsequent neutralization and the formation of sodium, less often magnesium, ammonium salts.

The most commonly used anionic surfactant is sodium lauryl sulfate(LSN). It has a strong cleaning and foaming ability. Formulations with a high content of LSN are dermatologically unfavorable due to their irritating and degreasing effects on the skin. It is known that sodium lauryl sulfate and its derivatives block the work of skin enzymes, changing their structure and disrupting the spatial structure. In addition, there is experimental data on the toxicity of this substance. Sodium lauryl sulfate not only destroys the lipid membranes of the stratum corneum, but also, penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin, can damage cell membranes. This is a harsh detergent with an aggressive nature, which, along with dirt, removes epidermal lipids, washes out ceramides from the hair, which leads to skin irritation, dandruff, and hair brittleness. Its ethoxylated analogue, sodium laureth sulfate, is much less toxic.

Hydroxyethylene magnesium lauryl sulfate - magnesium laureth sulfate- used primarily in children's shampoos. It is softer, but expensive.

New soft anionic surfactants groups acylpeptides represent a sodium salt - a condensation product of protein hydrolyzate and fatty acids of coconut oil.

Saktisulfosuktszhaty- also soft anionic surfactants based on succinic acid.

The group of anionic surfactants also includes sodium cetyl aryl sulfate, cetyltetraethoxyphosphate, les-70, potassium stearate, sodium stearate, zinc stearate, sodium lauryl sarcosinate, sodium lauryl sulfatone, EMAL, etc.

Anionic surfactants give good foaming, provide a strong cleaning effect, but are dermatologically quite harsh. In conditions of environmental imbalance, with the growing fashion for hair colors, tanning increases the traumatic effect on hair and skin. Damaged areas of hair with split ends contain a large surface area with a negative charge. Anionic surfactants (also negatively charged) raise keratin scales “on end”. As a result, hair clings to each other, splits, breaks, etc. In addition, anionic surfactants can penetrate the living layers of the epidermis and disrupt the vital activity of keratinocytes. Anionic surfactants are undesirable components of cosmetics.

Cationic surfactants in an aqueous solution they decompose to form positively charged ions, have a weak cleaning effect, but are well “attracted” to negatively charged hair and fix the dietary supplement on the hair. These include salts of quaternary ammonium compounds, cationic polymers, quaternized protein hydrolysates, derivatives of plant polysaccharides, ethoxylated stearyl ammonium lactate, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, catamine, quartamine, hydroxypropyl guar, etc. Cationic surfactants have an irritating effect and leave a residue on the hair. In combination with nonionic surfactants, they are used in shampoos for dry, bleached hair. Some cationic surfactants have a bactericidal effect.

group amphoteric surfactants present alkylamidopropyl betaines, which are used in combination with anionic surfactants to obtain a soft detergent substance. Recently, amphoteric imidazole derivatives of surfactants (cocoamphoacetate) have been used more often, which, in combination with anionic surfactants, improve foaming ability and increase the safety of formulations, and in combination with cationic polymers enhance the positive effects of silicones and polymers on hair and skin.

Nonionic surfactants added to shampoos to improve consistency, rheological characteristics, and make hair silky and soft. Most often used ethoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated castor oil, propylene glycol esters of high molecular weight fatty acids.

Nonionic surfactants cause a less pronounced denaturing effect than anionic ones, but have greater penetrating ability into the skin. They have a number of advantages over ionic surfactants: neutrality, stability in hard water, effectiveness in acidic, alkaline, neutral environments, easy biodegradability.

Co Surfactant is an auxiliary surfactant that helps create optimal balanced formulations. Such surfactants

How cocoglycosides, alkyl ether carboxylates etc., make it possible to obtain dermatologically soft shampoos with stable, intense foam, which can be recommended not only for washing hair, but also the body.

Cryptoanionic surfactants combine the properties of anionic and nonionic surfactants. A representative of this group of surfactants is alkyl ether carboxylate- provides increased efficiency of cationic conditioning agents, reduces irritation, increases foaming. Phosphates and carboxylates are used in cosmetic products as dispersants, emulsifiers, and solubilizers.

Shampoos, cleansing gels, foams, bath foams must have a balanced formula of amphoteric, nonionic, anionic surfactants, which provides good cleaning properties and a non-aggressive effect on the skin and hair.

Water in shampoos it occupies 80 - 90% of all constituent components, and its quality is of great importance in the production of cosmetic products. Depending on its composition, water can be hard or soft. Different waters have different effects on hair when washing your hair.

For washing your hair, the most suitable water is one in which less mineral salts are dissolved, i.e. soft. It is especially recommended to use soft water when treating hair that is naturally weak, porous, or damaged by repeated exposure to chemicals for curling or coloring. Such hair absorbs water well, and along with water, minerals soluble in it also enter their pores. Saturation of hair with mineral salts reduces its elasticity and shine. They become sticky and untidy in appearance. If soft water is not available, it can be prepared by boiling regular tap or other water. In this case, most of the water-soluble mineral salts settle on the walls of the vessel in the form of scale. Another way to soften water is to add baking soda to regular water (per 1 liter of water / 4 teaspoons of baking soda).

Very stringent requirements are imposed on water, the main of which are: sterility; absence of mechanical impurities, hardness salts that reduce foaming, heavy metal salts, iron (the presence of iron can destroy the active additive and change color); be isotonic to the contents of the cells, i.e. have a salt composition corresponding to a physiological solution, as well as microbiologically pure, otherwise it will become a source of product contamination.

When producing shampoos, special water treatment must be carried out in order to obtain softened, microbiologically pure water, using various methods: filtration, distillation, demineralization, etc. Some companies use mineral, sea, and thermal water in the formulation of their products. Thus, recently sea water has often become an independent means of cosmetic care. It has a complex composition, contains a large amount of mineral salts (NaCl, Mg, K); The pH is 7.5-8.4.

Thermal water is natural underground water whose temperature exceeds 20 °C. Based on the degree of mineralization, weakly, medium and highly mineralized thermal waters are distinguished. Depending on the chemical composition, waters are divided into carbon dioxide, calcium, iodine, ferruginous, hydrogen sulfide, and magnesium. The active components of thermal waters are included in metabolic processes and normalize the biological functions of the skin and hair.

Conditioning additives, which include highly volatile silicones and silicone oils, designed to remove static electricity and reduce hair flyaway; smoothing and leveling damaged areas of hair shafts; easy combing of wet and dry hair; minimizing porosity; giving hair shine and silkiness; providing protection from thermal and mechanical damage; hydration; increasing volume and mass; reconditioning damaged hair.

Functional additives are represented by preservatives, thickeners, solubilizers and pH regulators.

Preservatives- substances that are added to cosmetics to stop the growth or destroy microorganisms. Cosmetics provide an excellent environment for the growth and reproduction of microorganisms, which not only spoil the product, but also release toxins that provoke the development of inflammatory and allergic reactions on the skin. Not only the consumer properties of the product, but also its effectiveness and safety largely depend on microbiological purity. The main task of preservatives is to preserve a cosmetic product throughout its shelf life. Preservatives include antioxidants (antioxidants), synergists, prooxidant inactivators, bactericides, and bacteriostatics. The more “natural” the products included in cosmetics are, the faster such products deteriorate. This especially applies to natural fats, oils, and fat-like substances.

There is a list of preservatives approved for use in perfumes and cosmetics, approved by Directive 76/768 EU. This list includes 56 preservatives; There are restrictions on the administered concentration. There are restrictions regarding children's cosmetics separately.

The following preservatives are mainly used: benzoic acid derivatives; various parabens; katon CG - methylchloroisothiazolinone and methylisothiazolinone; germal 115 - imidazolidinyl urea; germaben 2 - propylene glycol, methylparaben, propylparaben; germal 2 - diazolidinyl urea; pheno-chem - phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben; ionol; oxypyridine; nipagin; nipazole, etc. Together with surfactants and fragrances, preservatives are traditionally considered one of the main causes of allergic reactions and dermatitis in people with sensitive skin.

Among natural preservatives, vitamin E, carotenoids, vitamin C, and superoxide dismutase (enzyme-based antioxidant) are known. Natural bactericidal substances have the ability of preservatives to slow down the process of deterioration of cosmetics: birch leaf extract, bird cherry leaf extract, pine bark extract, oak bark extract, sodium benzoate (cranberry, currant), essential oils, propolis, seaweed extracts rich in iodine. The introduction of these substances makes it possible to reduce the concentration of chemical preservatives and make the cosmetic product safer for skin and hair.

Thickeners(viscosity regulators) are added to shampoos to give the desired consistency. At the same time, it is known that with the correct selection of surfactant combinations, it is possible to obtain the required viscosity with a lower content of thickeners. Polymers used as thickeners are: polyvinylpyrrolidone, structured copolymers of acrylates, etc. The role of thickeners can be performed by modified glyceryl esters of fatty acids, derivatives of polysaccharides of plant origin, as well as some cationic polymers.

Solubilizers - These are special substances, in the presence of which the solubility of sparingly soluble ingredients increases. Various ethoxylated products are most often used as a solubilizer in cosmetics. They are highly soluble in water and can dissolve in fats, oils and some organic solvents. Often used to dissolve fragrances. Some dietary supplements are also dissolved in solubilizers before being added to shampoo, for example jojoba oil, wheat germ oil, and fat-soluble vitamins.

As regulators To correct the pH, soft acids (citric, lactic, orthophosphoric) or alkalis (sodium hydroxide, mono- or triethanolamine) are added. The pH of the shampoo must be such as to ensure the effectiveness of all components included in its composition. If the detergent is washed off satisfactorily, the pH level does not have a negative effect on the skin.

Aesthetic additives include opacifiers, dyes and fragrances. All of them improve the consumer qualities of shampoo, giving it individual characteristics in smell and appearance. There are also complexing additives that perform a dual role: they ensure the stability of the formulation (dye, fragrance) and neutralize the effect of calcium salts in hard water.

Opacifiers They give shampoos a uniformly cloudy appearance, mask visual inhomogeneities of the product, allowing, practically without changing the recipe, to give the product new consumer properties.

It is known that the success of a shampoo is ensured by a well-chosen fragrance However, it not only decorates the product, creating its unique image, but also eliminates the smell of raw materials. The fragrance must be compatible with surfactants and other active substances included in the shampoo. Currently, fragrance encapsulation technology has been developed. Encapsulation makes it possible to preserve the fragrance from exposure to water, oxygen, and active ingredients included in the product.

Along with preservatives and dyes, fragrances can be the main cause of the sensitizing effect of shampoos and the occurrence of contact dermatitis.

Useful in shampoos are dietary supplements - proteins, lipids, vitamins, seafood, plants, fruit extracts, hormones and phytohormones, etc.

Modern shampoos often contain micro- And macrospheres, which are systems (visible or invisible) in which the dietary supplement is encapsulated. Visible multi-colored capsules create an interesting visual effect and also isolate dietary supplements, increasing their stability; solve incompatibility problems, such as anionic and cationic components; skr

Gels and lotions, lipsticks and foundations, shadows, mascara, powder, face and body care products, shampoos, foams, masks... The list of cosmetics we use daily can be continued for a long time. In the hope of getting rid of problems, achieving beauty, maintaining youth and freshness, we have turned it into an integral beauty ritual. Unfortunately, our desire to overcome old age, dryness, oiliness and sagging plays into the hands of cosmetic companies, which happily exploit it, keeping silent about the impact of harmful substances in cosmetics on the human body.

Notes from a layman compiled his rating of the most harmful substances in cosmetics

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)

These harmful substances can be found in almost all bath gels and bubbles, shampoos, toothpastes and washes. Cheap detergent components SLS and SLES are used to obtain such seemingly harmless foam and give the product thickness. Quite often, SLS masking companies list “derived from coconuts” on their products. Do not fall for this trick, as these substances are extremely dangerous.

SLS and SLES dry out the skin, removing oil from its surface through oxidation, which leads to redness, allergic rashes and itching. Leaving a thin film on the hair and scalp, they contribute to dandruff and hair loss. Given this effect, it is quite strange to see sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium laureth sulfate on the label of a soothing or moisturizing cosmetic product.

These harmful substances in cosmetics can react with other components, forming carcinogenic dioxides and nitrites. SLS and SLES penetrate the skin, gradually concentrating in the tissues of the liver, brain, heart and eyes. Recent studies have shown that lauryl sulfate changes the protein composition of the cells of children's eyes, which in some cases leads to blindness in children and the development of cataracts.

The mere fact that these harmful substances are used not only as cosmetic ingredients, but also for experiments, as the most active irritant causing the strongest reactions, should force the consumer to read the label more carefully. The drug is administered to volunteers or experimental animals, and then drugs are tested for the resulting irritation or allergy.

If you want to arrange without health consequences, give preference to brands that produce products without SLS, or replace liquid soap and gels with regular soap.

Lauramide Dea

Another harmful substance in cosmetics, used to thicken cosmetic preparations and form foam. Due to the chemical's ability to dissolve fats, it is widely used in detergents. When interacting with the skin, it causes itching, irritation and more serious allergic reactions, and severely dries out the skin and hair.

Parabens (propylparaben, methylparaben, butylparaben)

Various parabens are found everywhere in cosmetics. These harmful substances are used as preservatives, as they have fungicidal and bactericidal properties. Take any cream off the shelf and look, most likely you will find one or more parabens already in the first line of the label. They are also components of toothpastes, deodorants, shampoos and intimate lubricants.

Some time ago, parabens, as particularly harmful substances in cosmetics, theoretically capable of causing breast cancer, were wanted to be banned for use. But scientists have not been able to obtain definitive evidence for this theory, so parabens are still allowed.

Among other things, they cause allergic reactions and irritation. And methylparaben, when interacting with ultraviolet rays, accelerates the aging process of the skin. Carefully study the composition of day creams and sunscreens if you want to have healthy skin.

Propylene Glycol

Corrosive liquid, petroleum derivative. Its main uses are brake fluids and antifreeze. As for cosmetics, this harmful substance is widely used in moisturizers and creams. In the “composition”, propylene glycol is usually in the first position, since its concentration in the product is very high and ranges from 10% to 20%.

The effect of smoothness and moisture is achieved by displacing beneficial skin resources. By binding liquid, the harmful component leads to dehydration of the skin, thereby accelerating its aging. In addition, propylene glycol provokes the appearance of acne and rashes, allergies and irritation. Having a low molecular weight, it easily bypasses the protective barrier, penetrating the body and, in high concentrations, disrupting the functioning of the kidneys and liver. But even at low concentrations, propylene glycol is a major skin irritant.

Mineral (technical) oil (Mineral Oil)

A petrochemical product, a mixture of fatty hydrocarbons separated from gasoline. In industry, this ingredient is used as a lubricant or solvent. The addition of such a harmful substance to cosmetics is due to its ability to retain liquid. In this case, mineral oil covers the surface of the skin with an airtight film, preventing the necessary oxygen exchange and the removal of waste products and toxins.

Studies have shown that hydration due to moisture retention by an oil film negatively affects the general condition of the skin, delays cell regeneration processes, impairs detoxification, thereby disrupting the vital functions of tissues. When in contact with a harmful substance, the skin dries and becomes thinner, and its barrier function is noticeably reduced. Paraffin and paraffin oil, petrolatum and propylene glycol are also types of mineral oils.

The use of cosmetics based on technical oil is one of the main causes of rashes and acne. It contains a high percentage of carcinogens and disrupts vitamin (fat-soluble vitamins A, D, E, K) metabolism in the skin. Be careful even when choosing children's cosmetics, since Mineral Oil is widely used by Johnson and Johnson, which produces children's oils and creams.

Diethanolamine and Triethanolamine (DEA and TEA)

These two extremely harmful substances are added to cosmetics as foaming agents and emulsifiers. Having looked at the composition of the cream, you will most likely find one of the substances mentioned in the list of components.

The influence of DEA and TEA components of cosmetics leads to irritation and dryness of the skin. They become especially dangerous when interacting with nitrates. The product of this reaction is carcinogenic nitrosamines. Long-term exposure to DEA and TEA reduces the body's ability to absorb choline, which is necessary for normal brain function.

Glycerin

Widely used as a useful and effective moisturizer. The composition of glycerin is water and fatty acids. Until recently, it was believed that this ingredient was not harmful to the skin and improved the penetration ability of lotions and creams. In fact, it turned out that glycerin is a rather harmful component in cosmetics, the effect of which is opposite to that described above. Recent research has found that at relative humidity below 65%, glycerin dehydrates the lower layers of skin cells, trapping moisture on the dead cells of the protective top layer, rather than absorbing water from the air. Thus, dry skin becomes even drier.

Phthalates

Phthalates are one of the most harmful components of cosmetics, causing genetic changes in future offspring and reducing fertility. They are incredibly toxic, but that doesn't stop cosmetic manufacturers from adding them to moisturizers, lotions, nail polishes, deodorants and perfumes. What’s even worse is that not every manufacturer considers it necessary to indicate their presence on the packaging. In Europe, a ban on the use of phthalates has long been introduced; in Russia and the CIS countries this issue is not controlled.

In the “composition” these harmful substances can be found under the following abbreviation: BBP (butyl phenyl phthalate), DBP (di-ethyl phthalate), DEP (de-ethyl phthalate), DHP (di-n-hexyl phthalate), DEHP (di-ethylhexyl phthalate), DIDP (di-isocedyl phthalate).

Isopropyl alcohol (2-propanol, dimethylcarbinol, IPA, isopropanol)

How much cosmetics do you use daily? For your face alone, you probably have at least 4-5 products: makeup remover, cleanser, toner, scrub, day and night cream, foundation. And this is basic care. Now imagine that each of these tools has at least 1 critical component. And even if it is presented there in low concentration, doesn’t it turn out that we are applying a chemical cocktail to our skin?

In this issue, Alena Eco, whose blog is dedicated to a thorough analysis of the composition of cosmetics, shared her opinion with us.

Why do you buy natural cosmetics? The safety of the compounds is probably important to you. Safe for your health and the environment.

You can have peace of mind with eco-certified organic cosmetics. Well-known eco-standards BDIH, NaTrue, Ecocert, Cosmebio, USDA prohibit the use of critical ingredients in cosmetics - strong preservatives, petroleum products, synthetic fragrances and dyes, irritating tensides, products obtained from dead animals (for example, animal collagen extracted from cockscombs).

But if an ingredient is prohibited by eco-standards, this does not mean that you will not find it in ordinary classic cosmetics. Take a look at the first hand cream you find in the store - there will be parabens, fragrances, PEG derivatives, and mineral oil.

The question arises: “Are these ingredients really critical? After all, if they were dangerous to health, their use would have been banned by law long ago!” Is it so? Let's figure it out.

Why is it allowed?

The production and distribution of cosmetic products is regulated in Russia by the Technical Regulations of the Customs Union “On the safety of perfumery and cosmetic products”, in Europe - by the European Cosmetics Regulation.

Both documents say the following:

what ingredients are prohibited in cosmetic products;
some ingredients can only be used in cosmetics at a certain concentration (for example, propyl and butyl parabens up to 0.19%, methyl and ethyl parabens up to 0.4%);
the manufacturer is responsible for the safety of its products;
the manufacturer is obliged to check each product for the content of prohibited substances and for safety;

Authorities may test cosmetic products on a random basis.

So what's the problem? And the fact is that the law, one way or another, takes into account the content of a critical ingredient in only one product and does not take into account the fact that we use several products a day. And so - every day.

Many studies show that when using several cosmetic products with critical substances (for example, hormonally active ones, such as parabens or UV filters), a “chemical cocktail” is obtained in the blood - the negative effects of one critical ingredient can be enhanced by another.

Why is it prohibited?

At the political level, only those ingredients whose negative effects on the body have been officially proven are prohibited in cosmetics. To do this, an ingredient can be tested for years before the evidence reaches the top.

Eco-standards prohibit ingredients whose negative effects are only suspected. They don't wait for hundreds of official studies in laboratories and unofficial studies on users (read: you and me) to ban critical or controversial ingredients.

Example: phenoxyethanol

For example, phenoxyethanol, a popular preservative in face creams, has long been suspected of having neurotoxic effects on the body and negatively affecting the immune system. Therefore, it was banned by all eco-standards except the Soil Association.

Until recently.

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