Crocheting heels. Master class on crocheting socks, many patterns. Knitting socks using jacquard technique
General provisions
When knitting in circular rows, the work should be turned after each row. Each row begins with one or more lifting air loops. Their number depends on the type of loops. After this, the 1st loop of the new row is knitted into the last loop of the previous row (Fig. 3)
So that the beginning of the row is always in the same place. Each row is closed with 1 connecting post in the 1st loop of the row (Fig. 2, see above)
Air lift loops
When knitting in circular rows and regular rows, knit the following number of lifting stitches:
for single crochets: 1 air lifting loop;
for half double crochets and embossed double crochets: 2 air lifting loops;
for double crochets, embossed and crossed double crochets: 3 chain lifting loops.
Step 1. Toe
The toe is knitted in circular rows using single crochets. To do this, collect 5 air loops and close them into a ring with 1 connecting post (Fig. 1).
Depending on the size of the shoe, a larger or smaller number of rows are knitted according to a certain pattern of additions. Additions are made according to the data in the “Table of Additions for the Toe”, see below. Depending on the shoe size, a certain number of loops are added. When the required number of loops is reached, knit 4 more rows without increments.
Step 2. Foot
The length of the foot is knitted in circular rows with half double crochets. It can be done with a smooth or convex blade (Fig. 4 and 5).
The number of rows, or length, depends on the shoe size (see “Size Chart” below).
Step 3. Heel
The heel is knitted in circular rows with single crochets in the middle of the length of the foot. At the same time, additions are constantly made until a certain number of loops is reached. For this purpose, for the 1st row of the heel, knit 1 air loop, skip 1 loop, knit 1 single crochet and 1 connecting stitch in the following loops (Fig. 6, see above). For the second row, again knit 1 chain stitch, turn the work and knit 2 single crochets into the loop of the previous row. Fasten again with 1 connecting post into the next free loop of the last row of the foot.
After this, knit as follows: 1 chain stitch, skip the connecting stitch of the previous row, add 1 loop, knit single crochets to the penultimate single crochet of the previous row, add 1 loop and fasten with 1 connecting stitch into the next free loop of the last row of the foot (Fig. 7, see below). The addition of heel loops thus occurs in the first and last single crochet of the previous row. Once the number of heel loops corresponding to the shoe size is reached, then knit without increments until a certain number of unknitted foot loops remain (see “Size Table” below). After this, the work is turned without the lifting air loop and loose connecting posts are knitted on half of the heel loops (Fig. 8, see below). In this case, the middle of the back of the toe has been reached. 
At the end, when knitting the connecting posts, you need to make sure that they are not visible on the finished sock.
Advice. If you start knitting the upper part of the sock with a different yarn, then there is no need to knit the connecting posts. New yarn is introduced into the work in the middle of the last row of the heel.
Step 4. Top of the sock
The upper part of the sock is again knitted in circular rows along the heel loops, as well as along the still free foot loops, first in half double crochets.
When making the top of a sock, there are many options both in terms of the pattern and the length of that part of the sock.
When knitting the 1st row of the upper part of the sock, it is very important that when moving from the heel to the foot (the instep wedge), one half double crochet is knitted into the last connecting stitch of the heel and into the foot loop lying underneath, into which the connecting stitch is knitted ( Fig. 9, see above). The number of loops again corresponds to this foot. Finally, the next 3 rows are knitted with half double crochets, this time without any additions.
When making women's and children's socks, you can decrease 2 loops in the next 2 rows, respectively, or knit 2 half double crochets together twice. As a result, the top of the sock will be slightly narrower than the foot and will fit better to the leg. For larger ankles or thicker calves, you should not reduce the top of the sock.
Advice. The size template serves as a guide to the length and size of the sock. For this purpose, you should simply place the sock on the template and check the size. When using yarn of different thicknesses, the product can be larger or smaller.
Adding toe toe
Size chart for crochet socks No. 4
How to crochet socks is exactly the question that we have to deal with today and achieve a positive result. Since quite recently we looked at the theoretical aspects of knitting socks - an approximate pattern (for those who missed this information, I suggest you look at the article), it’s time to move from theory to practice.
Since I didn’t really like the socks I knitted for that theoretical article (and there are explanations for this) - today I’ll try to crochet socks, doing everything from start to finish according to the rules (well, or almost everything)))
I hope this approach will be useful for you, at least as an example))). I will knit socks for an eight-year-old boy - for my little son.
To crochet socks, I use the following materials:
- Yarn “Diamond” in two colors, left over from knitting and. I still have quite a bit of this thread left, I think even crocheted socks for a child will take less than 100 grams. The yarn is thin and I am going to knit it in one thread.
- Hook No. 3. Since the recommendations indicate that the hook should be twice as thick as the thread. Initially, I tried to knit with a double stitch, but somehow I didn’t like it...so I took a larger hook.
- A piece of paper with a pen or pencil to write down the calculation
So let's get started
How to crochet socks
Preparatory stage (calculating knitting density and taking measurements)
First of all, we knit a sample with double crochets from the selected yarn, approximately 20 loops per 8 (10) rows, maybe less, maybe more... depending on the thickness of the yarn. In general, it is believed that the sample for calculation should be quite large for this calculation to be the most accurate. I wrote about this in the article))) in the same article you will find recommendations for processing the sample before calculation and do not be alarmed that they are talking about knitting - the principle is the same))) We count and write down the results...
With my knitting density it turns out 1 cm = 2.2 loops, 1.14 rows
- Leg circumference at the narrowest point above the ankle (measurement 1)
- Leg circumference through instep and heel (measurement 2)
- Length of the foot to the beginning of the big toe (measurement 3)
- Well, and at the same time the total length of the foot (measurement 4)
Measurement 1 = 18 cm.
Measurement 2 = 21 cm.
We get an average sock size of 18+21=39/2=19.5 cm.
In theory, for freedom of fit, you can add 1 cm, but I will add 0.5 cm, because... The sock is still on a child’s foot and it seems to me that 1 cm is too much))) It turns out to be 20 cm.
Stage two - directly crocheting the sock
Friends, I will write my numbers and how I got them. Please note that this data may not be suitable for you (and most likely it will not be suitable))). Therefore, do not be lazy to calculate your knitting density for the yarn you have chosen, take measurements from your “client” (since children even of the same age are very different))), and by analogy, calculate your numbers in order to crochet socks according to your sizes.
We knit from top to bottom. First, let's work on the elastic band, for knitting it we use the same double crochets, only we will knit them behind the back wall of the loop (those who do not understand at all what I just wrote, I advise you to read the article « " or " » , we act by analogy)
We assemble a chain, the number of air loops of which is equal to the length of the elastic band of the future sock. Let it be 5 cm. We multiply the number of loops obtained when calculating the knitting density of 2.2 by 5 cm, we get the number of loops of the initial chain.
2,2*5 =11
This means that for the elastic band we cast on 11 loops + 3 VP for lifting (which always replace the first column of the row)
1st row - make a double crochet in the 4th loop from the hook. Next, we knit the entire row with double crochets - 11 stitches in total
2nd row - 3VP for lifting, Dc behind the back wall of the loop
In order to find out the number of rows that should be knitted, you need to multiply the number of rows obtained when calculating the knitting density, i.e. 20*1.14 = 22.8 (round up and knit 23 rows) 
Then fold the elastic in half (short sides) and sew using connecting stitches or single crochets. 
Now in a circle you need to knit a number of stitches again equal to the average size of the sock (20 cm)
We multiply the number of loops obtained when calculating the knitting density by the average sock size
2,2*20=44
Here I want to note that the double crochet is equal in height to two loops. Focus on this to knit a Dc from a “lying” column. That’s why I ended up with 46 columns, and I left it that way – I didn’t subtract anything...
At the same time, in each row we change the color of the yarn 
Having knitted the required number of rows, we proceed to dividing the sock into “heel and non-heel”
The number of columns around the circumference is 46. So 46/2=23
We collect air loops on half of the sock (23) and attach the braid to the middle of the row. Let me remind you that with these actions we determine the place for the heel...
...and continue knitting in the round only one part. In my mind, I should first tie the heel, and only then everything else... but for me, as always, “the smart thought comes later” 
Therefore, I knit the sole and toe first, and leave the heel for last. And here my knitting according to the rules ends...
The total length of the leg includes three segments: the heel, the distance from the heel to the toe and the toe. I took 5 cm to the heel and toe. Then I subtracted 10 cm from the total length of the foot and multiplied the resulting figure by the number of rows of 1 cm. It turned out to be 12 rows of dc. To be honest, I kept trying the sock on my son...
We outline the angles relative to the corners of the future toe and immediately begin decreasing, decreasing the loops in each row, bringing the number of loops to 1/3 of the large hole 46/3 = (approximately) 15 loops (there should be an even number of loops) for convenience when sewing, which means 16 p. For the heel: along the edge of the hole for the heel (there will be more loops here than in the toe...) knit 1.5 circles of stitches and, without tying 1 sc to the corner, knit 3 stitches together in the corner (i.e. on the hook 4 loops are knitted behind one step).
Knit another half circle and make the second corner in the same way.
In each circle in the corners of the heel, knit 3 sc together until the hole is approximately equal to 1/3 of the large hole 46/3 = (approximately) 15 loops (there should be an even number of loops) for ease of stitching, means 16 sts
Then sew the edges of the hole 
We knit the second sock in the same way.
So we looked at the question of how to crochet socks :)
Knitted socks 
Conclusion: crocheting socks, in general, is not more difficult, than "driving a taxi""How to knit socks with knitting needles.
I think that crocheting socks of this type is quite possible for beginners)))
The main point is to choose the right yarn and hook for it, otherwise instead of a sock you may end up with a felt boot)))
Socks can be knitted or crocheted. We discussed in detail how to knit socks on knitting needles, and today we offer to crochet socks for beginners, i.e. this master class will be useful for those who are just learning the basics of crocheting.
For size 38 socks you will need:
Any natural yarn, preferably stretch;
Hook No. 3.
Crochet socks sequence:
Knitting the toe of a sock
We start knitting the sock from the big toe. To do this, wrap the thread around your thumb. Tie 8 single crochets into the resulting ring. Pull the thread.
1st row - knit 2 stitches in each loop = 16 stitches.
2nd row - knit 3 stitches, knit 2 stitches in the next loop, repeat from *-* = 20 stitches.
3rd row - knit 4 stitches, knit 2 stitches in the next loop, repeat *-* = 24 stitches.
4th row - knit 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches in the next loop, repeat *-* = 32 stitches.
5th row - knit 3 stitches, knit 2 stitches in the next loop, repeat *-* = 40 stitches.
Knit 10 rows.
Mid sock
tie two stitches into one loop of the previous row, 19 stitches, 2 stitches into one loop, 19 stitches = 42 stitches.
Perform the same additions three more times, in every fifth row = 48 stitches.
Try the sock on your foot. If necessary, make decreases or additions. Then knit until the length of the sock is equal to the length of your foot to the heel (= about 16 cm).
Crochet heel toe sock
Start knitting the heel. To do this, you need to divide the work into two equal parts. We knit the loops of the lower foot = 24 stitches. Turn the knitting over and continue knitting 24 single crochets.
Knit these 12 stitches and start making increases: at the beginning of each row, 1 loop. Increase until the number of stitches is again 24.
Top of the sock
Then start knitting evenly in the round. Knit 5 more rows, while grabbing the loops at the back walls. Cut the thread and tuck it in. Sew the side seams of the heel using a hook or sew with a needle.
We crochet the second sock in the same way as the first.
Knitting a toe always starts the same way. Tie 8 half-columns using a thread ring and close the row with a connecting column made in the 1st loop.
According to scheme 1, perform the number of rows in a circle corresponding to the size.
In the 2nd row the number of loops is doubled = 16 loops.
Starting from the 3rd row, 4 loops are added to each row of circular knitting.
Continue the work in rows in the forward and reverse directions, that is, after the connecting column, turn the work so that the beginning of the circular row does not move and runs along the line of the middle of the lower part of the foot. If necessary, mark the right and left middle loops with a contrasting thread.
Step 2. Foot, heel and instep
For the foot, knit half columns without adding stitches and perform as many rows in a circle as indicated in the table below or in the instructions for the model. Continue marking the transition from row to row with a contrasting thread, moving it upward.
Then, in each row, start adding loops to lift the foot and heel: before and after the right middle loop, as well as before and after the left middle loop, perform 2 half-columns. The number of rows with increases is indicated in the instructions for the model or determined from the table:
Step 3: Heel Wall
For the heel wall, knit single crochets according to pattern 2 (shown below). If the last row with increases was a front row, after turning, as shown in the diagram, using connecting posts, go to the edge of the heel wall, knit the outer loop of the heel, turn and continue working according to the diagram. If the last row with increases was purl, first, using connecting stitches, go to the edge of the heel wall and knit 1 loop from the side edge of the heel, turn and
Continue work according to the diagram.
In the 1st row of the heel wall, at the beginning and at the end, perform 2 single crochets, knitted together. In the remaining rows, perform the technique only at the end of each row. To do this, insert the hook into the last loop of the heel wall, grab and pull the thread, then insert the hook into the next loop of the side edge of the heel, grab and pull the thread, then grab the thread and pull through all the loops on the hook. Then turn the work and immediately, as shown in the diagram, perform 1 single crochet in the last loop received.
Continue working according to the scheme. In the diagram, the heel wall is knitted with 15 loops (according to the table, it corresponds to sizes 36–41). For smaller sizes, the number of loops on both sides of the middle loop of the bottom of the foot is correspondingly reduced, and for larger sizes it is increased (see the table given in “Step 2”). The number of rows for the heel wall is different for different sizes; these values are also determined from the table. 
Step 4. Top of the sock
The upper part of the toe starts from the upper edge of the heel (here the 19th row of diagram 2) and
knitted in the round. To narrow the upper part of the sock, depending on the size, according to the instructions for the model or in accordance with the table, additional decreases are made, as shown in the 20th and 21st rows of diagram 2 (given above, in “Step 3”). As a result of the decreases in the circular row, you should get the same number of loops as was originally for the foot.
Knit the top of the sock of the appropriate length.
Knit the second sock in the same way. For models with side patterns on the top of the sock
The loops after the heel wall should be distributed symmetrically in both directions.
Photo: Sabrina magazine. Special issue" 4/2015
T We crochet warm, flirty socks with a simple jacquard pattern and a voluminous pattern on the cuff.
To knit socks you will need 50 grams of white wool blend yarn of medium thickness and 100 grams of light purple yarn, hook No. 3.5.
We start knitting a sock with a set of 8 half-columns from a thread ring, then tighten the ring and make a connecting loop into the 1st half-column.
To knit the pattern, introduce a light purple thread and knit with a simple pattern, alternating 2 half-stitches with white thread over dark loops and 2 half-stacks with purple thread over white loops, knitting technique and changing threads
Having knitted a sock 17-18 cm from the start of work, continue knitting with one purple thread for another 5-6 rows, adding 1 additional half-stitch along the sides in each row.
Then start knitting the heel with single crochets in straight and reverse rows according to pattern 2 on the middle part of the sole, moving on to the beginning of knitting with connecting stitches. While knitting the heel, simultaneously attach it to the toe to the middle.
After knitting 5-6 rows, knit a cuff with a voluminous pattern according to pattern 4, starting with 2 rows of single crochets.
Crochet openwork socks
Openwork socks are comfortable to wear during the hot season. You can learn how to crochet such elegant socks by watching this sock knitting master class. You will need 100 grams of yarn and a hook. The most pleasant yarn to wear in hot weather is cotton, so for knitting socks, choose medium-thick cotton yarn and a No. 2.5 hook.
You need to knit socks in the following sequence: first, the toe of the sock is knitted, then the main part with an openwork pattern to the heel, the hole for the heel is created from an additional set of chain of air loops, along which the openwork pattern of the sock cuff continues to be knitted. Having finished knitting the cuff, attach the thread at the hole for the heel and tie the heel.
Crochet sock pattern:
Now let’s learn more about knitting an openwork sock according to the pattern:
Knitting a toe. Cast on a chain of 60 chain stitches and close it into a ring with a connecting post. The opening of the starting ring should be equal to the width of the foot at the toes.
Make 3 chain stitches and double crochet the first row.
In the second row, start making decreases: 3 up. p. rise, 3 st s/n together (with one top), 24 st s/n, 3 st s/n together, 1 st s/n, 3 st s/n together, 24 st s/n, last 3 st s/n with one top. End each row with a connecting loop in the third lifting loop.
Third row with decreases: 3 air. p. rise, 3 st s/n together, 18 st s/n, 3 st s/n together, 1 st s/n, 3 st s/n together, 18 st s/n, last 3 st s/n together . As you noticed, the point on the sides is 3 air. lifting loops and double crochets before and after which decreases are made. In the next rows, make decreases near these points, knitting together not three, but two stitches together, gradually narrowing the toe towards the top. Having knitted 6 rows of the toe, sew the remaining hole at the top or knit a connecting row, inserting the hook behind the half-loops of both sides of the hole.
When finished, cut and fasten the thread.
To knit the main part of the sock, attach the thread to the starting point of the toe. Knit the openwork pattern in the round, ending each row with a connecting stitch in the last lifting loop.
After tying the sock to the heel and finishing the openwork pattern on the odd row, make a hole for the heel. To do this, cast on a chain of 30-37 chain stitches, trying on the instep of the leg, and secure the chain with a connecting post on the other side of the sock.
Having knitted the cuff to a height of 12-14 cm, finish knitting the openwork pattern in an even row with the picot elements in the pattern.
The last step in knitting the sock is to knit the heel on the left hole. To do this, attach a thread to the side part (the junction of the cast-on chain and the main part of the sock) and make 3 air. p. rise for knitting the first row. Knit the first row around the hole with double crochets. From the second row, start making decreases as when knitting a toe from the center of the sides. In the second and third rows, make decreases by knitting 3 double crochets together before and after the side point, the fourth, fifth and sixth two double crochets together.
Having knitted the heel, sew the remaining hole or knit the connecting row. When finished knitting, cut and fasten the thread.
The second sock is knitted exactly the same as the first.
Crochet master class
the most basic warm and cozy socks
You will need: yarn of any thickness and a suitable hook.
1. According to pattern 1, tie the toe to the widest part of the foot. Then tie the flat part to the lifting wedge, guided by the first table.
2. Guided by the second table, knit the required number of rows for the instep wedge and move the connecting loops to the beginning of knitting the heel.
3. Using pattern 2, knit the heel (each pattern indicates the number of stitches for the heel).
4. Finish knitting the heel by picking up the first half stitches from the instep wedge, and knit one row in a circle with single crochets.
5. Knit 3 rows with half-stitches and work an elastic band from the front and back stitches. s/n according to scheme 3.
So let's get started! Knitting begins with the cuff. We cast on the required number of elastic loops (I have 48) and close them into a ring with a connecting post.
Here's how to cast on stitches to form an elastic edge:
Unwind the end of the thread three times longer than the intended length of the cast-on row. Lay the thread on your left hand, as when casting on knitting needles (Fig. 1). On the index finger there is a thread from a ball, and on the thumb there is a free end of the thread. Insert the hook under the thread on your thumb, grab the working thread and pull through the first loop. Release the thread from your thumb and tighten the knot. Pick up the thread again with your thumb (Figure 2). Insert the hook under the thread on your thumb, grab the thread and pull through the loop. Release the thread from your thumb and tighten the knot. There are two loops on the hook. Pick up the working thread and knit these two loops. Pick up the thread again with your thumb and repeat all steps until you have knitted a chain of the required size.
Then we knit the elastic with 1*1 embossed stitches in a circle.
We knit to the desired elastic size (mine is 12 cm, that’s 20 rows).
Then we knit 5 rows with single crochets. also in a circle.
Now let's start shaping the heel. We knit the back straight fabric of the heel. To do this, divide the circle of the loops in half and knit in the forward and reverse directions with single crochets (I have 18 rows).
Now we divide the straight fabric of the heel into three parts (the middle one can be made larger, but the side ones should be the same) and continue to knit in the forward and reverse direction on the middle loops and attach the side parts (for this: we knit a row of middle loops, insert a hook from the front side under the top of the nearest loop of the side part, grab the thread and pull it through the loop of the fabric and the loop on the hook). Thus, the middle part will join the side. This is the heel we got.
Having formed the heel, we continue to knit in a circle with single crochets. To form an instep wedge, we knit two stitches with one common vertex to the right and left of the upper edge of the straight heel fabric. We continue cutting until the original number of stitches (I have 48 stitches, so I got 12 rows with shortening).
We continue to knit in circles without changes to the base of the thumb.
Well, here's the final point!
Knitting the toe:
We divide the loops into 4 equal parts and knit 2 stitches with one common vertex at the beginning of each quarter. Having finished cutting, break the thread and fasten it on the wrong side!
Hooray!!! The sock is ready.
Knit the second sock symmetrically to the first!
I used Finnish threads, 100g/260m, warm and soft!
Warm socks - for dad and son
http://idi-k-nam.ru/post284220939/?upd 
You will need (size 45 - foot length 28-29cm):
Yarn “Children's whim” (60% wool, 40% acrylic, 225 m/50 g), 100 g yellow, 100 g denim, hook No. 3.
Knit with thread in two folds!
Main part:
Using a jeans-colored thread, tie a chain of 3 chains, connecting it into a ring.
1st row: knit 7 tbsp in the center of the ring. b/n.
2nd row: 2 tbsp. b/n in each st. previous row.
3rd row: *1 st b/n, 1 increase (2 st b/n in each st of the previous row)*
4, 6, 8, 10, 12 rows: no additions.
Row 5: *2 tbsp. b/n, 1 increase*.
Row 7: *3 tbsp. b/n, 1 increase*
9 row: *4 tbsp. b/n, 1 increase*
Row 11: *5 st. b/n, 1 increase*
Row 13: *6 st. b/n, 1 increase*. (56 st.)
Rows 14-23 - knit straight.
23rd row - unfold the work, knit 30 sts. b/n.
After this, knit 8 rows as follows: knit st b/n, decreasing 2 sts in the middle of each row. Finish knitting. Sew a seam on the heel.
"Tongue":
Work in the center of the AC line 16 sts. b/n with yellow thread, knit 15 cm. In the last 4 rows, make decreases at the beginning and end of the row for rounding.
Top part:
Using yellow thread along the ABC line, knit 11 rows of st. b/n. Next, continue knitting st. b/n, without knitting 3 stitches at the end of each row. Knit a total of 4 rows in this way. Next, knit 4 rows, leaving 1 st at the end of each row. Then knit straight stitch. b/n approximately 17 cm. The last row is a “crawfish step”.
Assembly:
Tie the edges with denim thread in 4 rows of stitches. b/n.
"Edges" refers to the front vertical parts of the shoe.
Tie a cord from air. p. yellow thread approximately 1.5 m long. Insert the lace using a hook, grabbing the “tongue”, as shown in the photo. Then tie a circle with denim thread and sew it on.
You need to lace up so that the “tongue” does not dangle inside, but is inside the lacing...
СС - connecting post
VP - air loop
RLS - single crochet
Dc - double crochet
Knitting starts from the toe in the round.
Toe (according to scheme 1)
Close 2 VPs into a ring with a connecting post (CC).
Row 1: VP lift (do not count as the first sc), 8 sc in the ring, connect SS = 8 loops
Row 2: VP lift (do not count as the first sc), 2 sc in each loop of the previous row, connect SS = 16 loops
Row 3: VP lift (do not count as the first sc), repeat in the circle until the end of the row, connect SS = 24 loops.
Row 4: VP lift (do not count as the first sc), - repeat in a circle until the end of the row, connect SS = 32 loops.
Row 5: VP lift (do not count as the first sc), repeat in the circle until the end of the row, connect SS = 40 loops.
Row 6: VP lift (do not count as the first sc), sc in each loop of the previous row, connect SS = 40 loops.
Foot
Row 7: (according to scheme 1) 3 VP lifting (do not count as the first SSN), - repeat in a circle, connect SS = 8 shells.
Row 8-11: (according to pattern 2) make 2 dc to move forward to the middle of the first shell, 3 ch rise (do not count as the first dc), - repeat in a circle, connect sl st = 8 shells.
Break the thread.
Heel
Attach the thread between the shells, leave one shell in the center of the slipper, continue knitting in straight-back rows on the remaining 7 shells, repeating the pattern according to pattern 3.
Row 12-16: 3 ch lift, [shell to shell] - repeat in circle, finish with dc in space between shells = 7 shells, turn work.
Break the thread. Sew a seam to form the heel.
Bootleg
Tie the sc along the edge, without grabbing the central shell - leave it like that. Additionally, knit a chain of 15 chain stitches for the strap.
Knit in straight-back rows RLS - 10 rows, not forgetting to make 2 holes for buttons (skip one RLS, VP).
Break the thread. Sew buttons.
I wanted to knit strictly according to the description, but as always there were some changes. They are very insignificant and only at the beginning of knitting.
This is how I worked out scheme 1:
Size(s): 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length ~ 22 - 24 - 27 cm.
Yarn: DROPS NEPAL from Garnstudio (65% wool, 35% alpaca; 50 g ~ 75 m)
Number of balls: 150 gr.
Knitting density: 18 st. b/n x 20 rub. = 10 x 10 cm.
Tool(s): 3.5 mm hook.
Other materials: 2 wooden buttons
First Art. b/n in the row, replace with 1 air. n. Finish the row with 1 connection. p. in air P.
Decrease
Perform 1 tbsp. b/n without the last broach (= 2 loops on the hook), perform the next st. b/n and make the last broach through all the loops on the hook = decrease 1 tbsp. b/n.
Decrease
Knit in a circle from the toe towards the heel to the instep, then knit, alternating RS. and IS.
Tie 4 air. p. and form a ring using 1 connection. p. in the first air. P.
1st row: work 6-6-5 sts. b/n in the ring.
2nd row: perform 2 tbsp. b/n in each st. b/n = 12-12-10 tbsp. b/n
3rd row (and all subsequent odd rows): 1 tbsp. b/n in each st. b/n
4th row: * 1 tbsp. b/n in the first st. b/n, 2 tbsp. b/n in the next article. b/n *, repeat *-* a total of 6-6-5 times = 18-18-15 st. b/n.
6th row: * 1 tbsp. b/n in the first 2 tbsp. b/n, 2 tbsp. b/n in the next article. b/n *, repeat *-* 6-6-5 times = 24-24-20 st. b/n.
8th row: * 1 tbsp. b/n in the first 3 tbsp. b/n, 2 tbsp. b/n in the next article. b/n *, repeat *-* 6-6-5 times = 30-30-25 tbsp. b/n.
10th row: * 1 tbsp. b/n in the first 4 tbsp. b/n, 2 tbsp. b/n in the next article. b/n *, repeat *-* 6-6-5 times = 36-36-30 st. b/n. Next knit for sizes 38/40 - 41/43
12th row: * 1 tbsp. b/n in the first 5 tbsp. b/n, 2 tbsp. b/n in the next article. b/n *, repeat *-* 6-5 times = 42-35 tbsp. b/n. Next knit for size 41/43
14th row: * 1 tbsp. b/n in the first 6 tbsp. b/n, 2 tbsp. b/n in the next article. b/n *, repeat *-* 5 times = 40 tbsp. b/n.
16th row: * 1 tbsp. b/n in the first 7 tbsp. b/n, 2 tbsp. b/n in the next article. b/n *, repeat *-* 5 times = 45 tbsp. b/n.
For all sizes
36-42-45 art. b/n. Knit in the round for 1 tbsp. b/n in each st. b/n. up to 14-16-18 cm. Next knit st. b/n on the first 24-30-32 p., alternating LS. and IS. Having reached 20-22-25 cm, place the mark in the middle (= 12-15-16 stitches on both sides of the mark). In the next row, decrease 1 tbsp. b/n before and after the mark. Knit 1 p. no deductions. Repeat decrease on next row = 20-26-28 sts. Work 1 row without decreasing. Fold in half, sew the heel.
edge
Tie the open edge, starting from the middle of the heel: 1 tbsp. non-cash in the first paragraph, * 1 air. p., skip ~ 0.5 cm, 1 tbsp. b/n in the next st. *, repeat *-* until the end, finish with 1 connection. p. in the first st. b/n.
Strap with button
Tie 6 air. n. Knit 1 tbsp. b/n in the second air. p. from the hook, then 1 tbsp. b/n in the next 4 air. p. = 5 tbsp. b/n in a row. Next knit st. b/n, alternating drugs. and IS. Tie a strap 15-16-17 cm long. Fasten the strap to the slipper, sew on a button.
Original:http://www.garnstudio.com/lang/en/pattern.php?id=5670&lang=en 
Beautiful crocheted slippers from Drops Design studio.
Sizes: 35/37 - 38/40 - 41/43
Foot length: 22 - 24 - 27 cm.
You will need:
Yarn DROPS NEPAL (65% wool, 35% alpaca; 75m/50g)
Yarn quantity: 100 g color No. 0100 (white)
50 g color No. 6220 (blue)
50 g color No. 6314 (denim blue)
50 g color No. 7120 (light gray green)
50 g color No. 7139 (gray-green)
Hook No. 4.
Knitting density: 17 st. s/n = 10 cm wide
In each row from Art. s/n: instead of the first art. s/n connect 3 air. p., finish the row with 1 connection. p. in the third air. P.
In each row from Art. b/n: instead of the first st. b/n tie 1 air. p., finish the row with 1 connection. p. in the first air. P.
Stripes
Knit, pulling the white thread from the wrong side, trim the threads of other colors after each strip.
1 row from art. non-woven gray-green thread,
1 row from art. non-woven thread of light gray green color,
1 row from art. s/n white thread,
1 row from art. s/n white thread,
1 row from art. b/n blue thread,
1 row from art. non-woven denim blue thread,
1 row from art. s/n white thread.
Repeat these 12 rows.
Decrease
Decrease 1 tbsp. s/n, knitting 1 tbsp. s/n together as follows: perform art. s/n in the next st. b/n, without performing the last broach, knit another 1 tbsp. s/n in the next st. b/n in the same way, make 1 yarn over and pull the thread through all 3 loops on the hook.
Description of knitting
Knit in the round from the sock.
Tie 5 air. p. white thread and form a ring using 1 connection. p. in the first air. p. SM. KNITTING ADVICE!
1st row: 12 tbsp. s/n in the ring - beginning of the row = middle of the foot.
2nd row: * 1 tbsp. s/n in the first st. s/n, 2 tbsp. s/n in the next st. s/n *, repeat *-* until the end of the row = 18 tbsp. s/n.
3rd row: * 1 tbsp. s/n in the first 2 tbsp. s/n, 2 tbsp. s/n in the next st. s/n *, repeat *-* until the end of the row = 24 tbsp. s/n.
4th row (switch to blue thread): * 1 tbsp. b/n in the first 3 tbsp. s/n, 2 tbsp. b/n in the next article. s/n *, repeat *-* until the end of the row = 30 tbsp. b/n
5th row (switch to denim blue): knit 1 tbsp. b/n in each st. b/n, while evenly adding 4-6-10 tbsp. b/n = 34-36-40 st. b/n.
6th row (switch to white thread): knit 1 tbsp. s/n in each st. b/n.
Next, knit in stripes as described above. REMEMBER THE KNITTING DENSITY! When the length of the product is ~ 12-13-15 cm, stop after two rows of st. b/n, cut the thread. Place 1 mark between the two center stitches in the row, i.e. after 17-18-20 stitches. s/n. Take the product so that the toe is facing you, move 4 stitches to the left of the mark and start knitting from here with RS. white thread st. s/n. Knit until 6 stitches remain until the end of the row. b/n (i.e. 3 sts on each side of the mark), turn around. Continue knitting the stripes as before - make 1 connection. p. in the first st. s/n and further art. b/n to the penultimate st. s/n, turn around. Next knit straight and reverse
