Sew elegant evening dresses for complete people. Patterns of beautiful dresses for obese women. Dresses for women with a belly

Every fashionista's wardrobe must have a light, weightless dress that is ideal for sweltering summer days. The trend this season is the shirt dress. This outfit can be ideal both for a trip to the beach and for evening friendly gatherings in a cafe. Sewing a shirtdress with your own hands will be much cheaper than buying a ready-made one. In addition, the likelihood of meeting someone in the same, hand-sewn outfit is reduced to zero, since the dress will be made in a single copy. How to construct a shirt dress pattern and what material to choose for the product will be discussed in this article.

Choice of fabric and accessories

With today's variety of materials, there is room for your imagination to run wild. Batiste, cotton, denim, chintz, linen, staple, viscose are ideal options for natural fabrics for hot days. A variety of colors, prints and textures will allow you to create an original, strict, long shirt dress, a girlish playful look with an abundance of frills and lace, or a sporty variation.

As for the accessories, there is also a huge selection of buttons, sew-on snaps, various decorative stripes, laces, threads for stitching and whole and beads.

Model selection

In order not to get lost in the huge variety of materials, you should decide on the model in advance. If this is a sporty option, then denim, cotton, linen and staples with a calm print or without it at all are what you need. A denim shirt dress can be versatile. Even if it is decorated with beads and rhinestones, it will go perfectly with moccasins, sneakers or high-heeled sandals.

Perfectly draping and flowing viscose and staple are perfect for sewing a long outfit. Open shoulders and a decorative back design with crossed stripes or a sewn openwork insert will add chic.

A simple cambric or denim shirt dress with a belt without additional decorative elements and even without waist darts will look no less interesting.

Constructing a pattern

To make a template, you will need construction film or paper, a ruler, a measuring tape, scissors, a marker or a pen. Creating a dress pattern begins with taking measurements of the figure. Basic girths required: chest, waist, hips. You will also need to measure the width of the back, the height of the chest, the height of the back and front to the waist and the width of the shoulder.

The construction of a dress pattern can be divided into several stages:

Create a basic drawing grid.
Drawing the main lines of the front and back.
Construction of the sleeve at the armhole.

Creating a Basic Mesh

On paper or construction film, draw a vertical line equal to the length of the product from the shoulder to the bottom of the hem. Perpendicular to it, mark the line of the shoulder, chest (according to the measurement of chest height), waist (according to the measurement of the height of the back and front to the waist), hips (20 cm below the waist line) and the bottom of the product.

The perpendiculars should be equal to the circumference of the chest. At the end of the horizontal lines, a second vertical is laid. Next, move to the chest line and set aside 1/2 of the “back width” measurements; from the point, raise a perpendicular to the shoulder line. Then determine the width of the armhole. To do this, divide the half-circumference of the chest by four and add 2 cm. The resulting value is set aside after the previously marked point (1/2 the width of the back). A perpendicular is also raised from the resulting mark. Thus, there were three zones on the mesh: back, armhole and front.

Drawing the main lines of the front and back

Once the basic mesh for the template has been determined, you can refine the finer details in the drawing. Along the shoulder line, 7-8 cm are retreated from the left and right corners and indicate the neckline. For the back (near the left vertical) it is deepened by 3 cm, and for the shelf (at the right vertical) by 7-8 cm. The shirt dress pattern can be created without darts on the back and chest, so you can immediately begin to design the shoulder seam and armholes. To do this, draw a line from the neckline point equal to the “shoulder width” measurement. It is lowered from the original mark by about 1.5 cm. Next, on the chest line in the armhole area, the middle is found, and on the vertical raised from the “1/2 back width” mark, 1/3 of the armhole height is marked and a smooth line is drawn through these points I'll open it from the back.

The shoulder line from the chest side should be 2 cm lower, so before laying it, determine the boundary where it should fall. Also, at the level of 1/3 of the vertical, a point is placed along which an armhole for the front is drawn towards the middle of the armhole area on the chest line.

Next move on to the waist line. First, a perpendicular is lowered to it from the middle point of the armhole zone, then 2-3 cm are retreated from the resulting perpendicular on the waist line and a side cut is drawn. As a rule, the pattern of a shirt dress is made without waist darts, but only with small smooth curves along the side cut.

The perpendicular from the middle of the armhole area is extended to the hip line. Then, horizontally from the left and right vertical, ½ of the “hip circumference” measurement + 1 cm for a loose fit is set aside. Then the side cut is finalized. Typically, the front and back parts in the drawing are located on top of each other, so when cutting the template on one side, you will need to glue the cut part at hip level.

Construction of the sleeve at the armhole

The shirt dress pattern can be with or without sleeves. It is quite simple to build if you know a few basic rules. Using the lower border of the armhole, draw a circle, which is raised at the top by 1.5 cm. Next, along the chest line in the center, mark the girth of the arm + 4 cm and insert the sleeve cap to the extreme points of the set aside segment. The sleeve length can be any.

The created pattern can be used to sew any dress. To make it look like a shirt, it should be made with button fastenings along the center front line. The main thing is not to forget to allow allowance for making loops and sewing on buttons.

Every season, things appear in the fashion world that quickly gain popularity. In 2017, the shirt dress became a trend. Long elegant or short playful, it always looks great and is versatile. Many call it the new product of the season, but in fact this thing has a lot of history. Over the course of a century, short and long shirtdresses have appeared in different interpretations by the most famous fashion designers. But this thing entered the world of fashion thanks to a real legendary woman who created her own elegant style that captivated the whole world.

In this article, needlewomen will find detailed instructions on how to sew a shirt dress with their own hands. The dress pattern is very easy to construct, and assembling and processing the cut details will not take much time.

A little history

A century ago, Coco Chanel first offered the fashionistas of 1916 an original dress. In the days of corsets and crinolines, putting on a comfortable shirt dress for women was a real challenge of our time. The main details of the new item were borrowed from men's clothing. In the post-war period, thanks to the trend of military uniforms, the shirt dress pattern was slightly transformed: patch pockets, shoulder straps, a placket in the center of the front and a collar were added. It was during this period that, thanks to its practicality, it was at the peak of popularity.

Measurements for the template

It is best to create a shirt dress pattern on paper or construction film. Construction is not done directly on the fabric. The exception is models with a detachable skirt, the details of which are built directly on the canvas.

To build a template, first take measurements:

volume of neck, chest, waist, hips;
shoulder and back width;
chest height;
front and back to waist;
length of the product.

Basic grid - the basis of the template

For beginners, the most difficult part of patterning a shirtdress will be the armhole and sleeve. The rest of the cut details will not cause any difficulties. But if you take the measurements correctly and transfer them to the workpiece, then the sleeve will fit perfectly in the armhole without any fit defects.

The drawing of the workpiece begins by drawing a rectangle. One side should be equal to the length of the product, the other - half the chest circumference + 2 cm for a loose fit. Next, the lines of the auxiliary grid are marked in the rectangle.

Horizontals:

At chest height.
In accordance with the measurements of the length of the front and back to the waist.
At the level of the hips, which are located 20-23 cm below the waist level.

Verticals:

From the chest line to the upper border of the rectangle, departing from the larger side of the rectangle half the back width measurement +0.5 cm.
A distance equal to the half-circumference of the chest divided by four + 2 cm departs from the resulting vertical.
Between the two drawn vertical lines, find the middle along the chest line and lower the perpendicular down, which will serve as a guide for the side seam.

After all the manipulations in the drawing of the shirt dress pattern, the basic grid will be ready, on which the level of the chest and armhole, the level of the waist, hips, as well as the area of the back, armhole and front front and the border of the front and back along the side seam are determined.

Drawing the neck

From the upper corners of the rectangle along its smaller side at the top of the drawing, mark the neck. The neckline on the back is constructed as follows:

The half-girth of the neck is divided by three and half a centimeter is added.
This value is measured from the upper corner of the rectangle on the side where half the back width measurement is already marked, and a dot is placed.
The edge of the neckline is raised by an amount equal to the half-circumference of the neck divided by 10 plus 0.8 cm.
From the resulting point, draw the rounded neck of the back.

The construction of the front neckline is slightly different. Here you will need to calculate the following values:

Construction of the shoulder and armhole

Constructing the shoulder sections is as easy as constructing the neckline. Here you will not need to calculate the size of the back dart, since you can sew a shirt dress without darts, unlike other women's products. The construction of the shoulder and armhole is done as follows:

The shoulder line should start at the top of the neckline and go at an angle: for sloping shoulders make a slope of 3.5 cm, for normal shoulders - 2.5 cm, and for high shoulders - 1.5 cm.
The armhole begins to be drawn from the edge of the shoulder section to the auxiliary verticals of the base mesh of the armhole zone. On them, 1/3 of their size is marked from the chest line; it is to this point that the armhole is lowered and smoothly rounded to the middle point, from which the border of the side seam extends.
The front shoulder seam should be lowered by 2 cm more, so two more auxiliary horizontal lines are outlined that will help to construct the cut correctly.
From the extreme point of the shoulder, similar to the back, draw an armhole.

Side seam

Depending on the model of the dress, the side seam can be beveled a few centimeters towards the waist line and smoothly bring the line to the hips, this will make the silhouette fitted. Or you can leave the cut straight and then decorate it with a belt or drawstring with an elastic band. In both cases, along the hip line from the lateral vertical borders, measure half the hip girth measurement + 2 cm for a loose fit and put points through which the seam lines are drawn.

Sleeve

Perhaps the most difficult element in a dress is the sleeve. Of course, you can refuse it if this is a summer version of the product. But how to sew a dress, shirt with sleeves, and most importantly, how to build its template? To get started, you will need the following measurements:

armhole cut length, which can be measured directly from the template;
upper arm circumference;
wrist circumference + 2 cm;
the length of the sleeve.

The construction is carried out according to the following scheme:

Draw a vertical line equal to the length of the sleeve.
From the top point of the vertical, the value of the armhole length is set aside, divided by three and minus 2 cm.
From this point, at right angles to the left and right, ½ of the arm circumference is set aside.
From the extreme points of the horizontal to the top of the vertical, lines are drawn that close into a triangle.
At the bottom point to the right and left, ½ of the wrist circumference is set aside, taking into account an allowance of 2 cm.
The sides of the previously obtained triangle are divided in half, dots are placed, and the resulting parts are again divided in half and dots are placed.
starting from left to right, begin to build an okat:
- the first point is placed 2 cm inside the triangle;
- the second is left unchanged;
- the third - placed outside the triangle by 1.5 cm;
- the fourth is the top of the edge, it remains in place;
- the fifth is carried out beyond the triangle by 1.5 cm;
- the sixth remains unchanged;
- the seventh - brought inside 1 cm;
- the resulting points are smoothly connected by a line and a circle is obtained: on the left - the area of connection with the front, on the right - with the back;
- The horizontal lines of the drawing are connected by straight lines.

The pattern of an elegant outfit is ready.

Modern fashionable clothing differs from models of past seasons not only in its unusual cut, but also in its comfort, which is unusual for many. – a multifunctional and convenient product that is sure to find a home in the closets of all fashionistas this year, without exception.

The shirt dress is a rather original product, which has been at the peak of popularity for several years. It is worth noting that from year to year the cut of such a wardrobe item changes, its accessories change, but not its functional tasks.

Simply put, the shirt-dress style, which was in fashion last year, has lost its relevance this year.

Outdated models have been replaced by new proposals, but they are no worse than the previous options. After all, you can also wear them to work, take them for a walk with your children, and even go on first dates in them.

Is it possible to sew a shirt dress yourself at home? And what is needed for this?

Choosing your ideal shirt dress

Unfortunately, not every fashionable new product suits the needs of all representatives of the fair sex. For example, girls who have , are unlikely to buy themselves a tight-fitting elastic dress or a multi-layered skirt that visually adds volume.

But a shirt-dress is clothing that suits everyone without exception.

In addition, it can be either short or long, or sewn completely without it. Bright embroidery, multi-colored stickers and accent, visible buttons are again not mandatory elements of this season's fashionable look.

At the same time, it is also important that such an outfit can be sewn at home quite quickly. This means that any girl or woman can try on a discreet or festive shirt dress tomorrow.

How to sew a new item for the season?

There are many patterns that allow you to sew a stylish shirt-dress at home.

And plays an important role in this matter, because if, for example, without proper experience you try to sew a product from, you can fail, since it is quite difficult to process.

At the same time, the most “comfortable” materials for sewing are considered to be cotton fabrics, for example, satin.

We take a men's shirt as a basis

Oddly enough, the simplest women's long shirt can be sewn very quickly on the basis of a standard men's shirt. Therefore, prepare:

boyfriend or husband's shirt that is trendy this season;
matching threads;
sewing meter;
soap or chalk;
paper;
pencil;
scissors.

Start creating your fashionable outfit by taking measurements. Measure the circumference of your chest, waist and hips, and also decide whether the finished length is suitable for your specific needs. Try on the shirt and evaluate how comfortable its original sizes are.

After this, spread the men's shirt on a hard surface, first turning it inside out. Using chalk, draw a line along which the collar of the product will be cut. You can make either a slightly rounded neckline or a boat neckline.

Open the buttons and mark a seam line if the shirt needs to be reduced in width. Perform final fitting.

All that remains to be done after this is to process the neckline cut line on a sewing machine and stitch the two halves of the garment together.

By the way, if you shorten the sleeves, you can quickly and easily cut out a thin one from the remaining fabric, which will emphasize the fragility of the figure and highlight the waist.

Another option for creating a fashionable shirt dress will require cutting out two pieces of clothing: a men's shirt and a women's T-shirt.

Lay the shirt out on a hard surface and draw a line below the armhole, along which the entire top of the garment will be cut from the bottom. Open the buttons and stitch the fronts on the “female” side (the right side lies on the left).

At the same time, be sure to take into account the finished width of the product so as not to end up with an outfit that is too loose or too tight.

After this, lay out the T-shirt and mark a cutting line, which should go 10-15 cm below the neckline.

Cut the pieces and sew them together by hand, taking care to connect the side seams evenly. Turn the resulting model inside out and stitch together a shirt and a T-shirt.

A stylish summer shirt dress is ready. Pair it with fashionable sunglasses, a light handbag, a large hat and sandals to spend this hot summer in maximum comfort.

What to wear with it?

Since long women's shirts are, in fact, just a type of dress, they are usually worn without additions in the form of trousers or jeans. Only very short models can be paired with leather leggings or thick dark tights.

In addition, shirt dresses can be combined with any shoes. They look great with open flat sandals and stilettos, as well as with sneakers or summer boots.

If necessary, the same outfit can serve as formal office attire and stylish club wear. It’s enough just to change discreet loafers for pumps, pick up a bright clutch and focus on your lips.

So, a shirt-dress is a universal garment that is always appropriate and under any circumstances. Can't find the model you need in the store? Need a custom size? Or do you just want to stand out? Buy fabric and create your unique look literally in one evening, without leaving home!

Hello, dear readers of the site!
Today we will sew a shirt dress. I will not exaggerate at all when I say that this item of clothing never goes out of fashion. The silhouette, details, shape of sleeves or collar change, but the essence itself remains unchanged for many years - since the beginning of the 20th century since the time of Madame Coco.

I will sew a rather laconic version, but your dress can have different pockets,

with embroidery,

or you will get inspired by looking at an article about fashionable shirts and want to repeat something similar, only in dress format.

So, let's begin.

We will need:

- 1.5-2 m of fabric
- 10-12 buttons
- thread, scissors, chalk, needles
- adhesive material (non-woven fabric, dublerin)
- pattern (almost every magazine with ready-made patterns has basic models of shirts/shirt dresses. I took patterns No. 23 and No. 19 from Susanna Moden 4/2017 as a basis)

Alternatively, you can model the pattern from your base pattern...

...extending the shelf piece to make a one-piece fastener bar. I removed the waist darts along the front and in the side seams, as I wanted a more “loose-fitting” item on the figure.

If desired, the back can be made with a yoke.

We make the sleeves shorter, providing cuffs.

In addition, you will need to cut out the collar piece. Modeling it is quite simple. We measure the cut of the neck (by the back part + by the shelf part)...

...and draw a rectangle, the larger side of which will be equal to this value, and the smaller side will be approximately 1.5-2.5 cm (depending on the material - narrower stands look more harmonious on thin fabrics).

Raise one side of the rectangle by 2.5-3 cm, smoothly bending it. The detail for the collar stand is ready.

Draw a line that is symmetrically mirrored to the top of the stand but a little shorter...

...and from there we finish drawing our collar of the desired shape.

The collar, cuffs and placket must be glued with duplicating material.

We process the cuts on the overlocker, sew the back part with the front parts along the shoulder seams.

The sleeve in shirt-type products is almost always sewn into an open armhole, and then the side seams and the seam on the sleeve are sewn with one seam.

We will talk in more detail about processing the collar and cuffs another time separately, since this topic is quite extensive.
And today I would like to dwell on the moment of hemming the bottom.
To shape the bend angle of the plank and the bottom cut with a “corner” you need to do the following:

Iron the fold lines of the placket and the bottom,

- mark the place of their intersection, draw a line between these marks,

- chop at an angle and sweep, making sure that the stitching goes strictly along the marked line on both sides,

- stitch and cut off excess,

- iron thoroughly and turn inside out,

We sew out the loops, sew on the buttons - the dress is ready. Mine also got a badge.

Warm May days and beautiful dresses to everyone!

Greetings friends!

And finally, have I ever sewed shirts before? No. Have I ever sewed items with sleeves before? No. Can you do it this way (or maybe even better)? Definitely yes. So let's get started.

What we need:

Cotton fabric (I used stretch cotton) – 1.5 m*;
Non-woven and double linen (for collar and placket);
Buttons – 10 pcs (quantity at your discretion);
Bias binding – 4 m (quantity varies);
Sewing supplies;
Sewing machine;

*The amount of fabric will vary depending on the shirtdress you choose, your measurements and its length.

As you can see in the photo above, the option I chose shirt dresses without yoke and darts, fastens with buttons, just above the knee length, has a belt, one chest pocket, collar and short sleeves. On my Size 42 with length 87 cm (back 90 cm), the fabric was enough for me. And don’t forget that you may have to join the side seams of the shelves and the back so that you don’t have unsightly transitions at the joints. This means you may need a little more fabric. This is only the case if you choose striped fabric.

Final dimensions of the shirt dress details:

Pocket – 14.5 x 15 cm;

Belt – 140 x 3 cm;

Sleeve length – 16 cm;

Number of buttons – 8 pcs;

I don't want to upset you, but sew a shirt dress at all without pattern will not work. However, do not rush to get upset. With this option, you do not have to build abstruse drawings and resort to various mathematical calculations. All you need is an old (unwanted) shirt in your size. I used a men's shirt that was my size. I ripped it apart and transferred all the necessary details onto thick paper: the front, the back, the details of the collar and sleeves. I made the size of the pocket based on personal preference.

Voila, shirt dress pattern ready!

Sew a dress shirt

So, before we start sewing, we need to decate the fabric, dry it and iron it thoroughly.

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise with the wrong side up, lay out the pattern, fasten with pins and transfer. When I transferred the pattern onto the fabric, I added 0.5cm allowances to the side seams, armholes and neckline. Despite the fact that the pattern already included the necessary allowances, I decided to play it safe. After all, you can always cut off the excess, but if there’s not enough, then there’s nothing you can do about it.

We lay out a section of the shelf on the wrong side of the fabric. On the shelf pattern I have 2 widths (+ 0.5 cm) of strips for loops and buttons. Plank width = 3.5 cm. I decided to make the bar without cutting.

Add the same allowances as on the back parts.

Next, we lay out sleeve pattern. We lay out all the details divided into parts. We fasten with pins and outline. And in this case, I added 0.5 cm allowances to the side sections and the armhole. Later I became convinced that this was unnecessary.

We repeat the same steps with the details of the collar, belt, and pocket. In addition to these parts, you need to cut out one part from dublerin.

As a result, you should have:

1 piece for collar,
1 piece for collar stand,
1 piece to reinforce the top of the pocket.

But for the belt and for strips for hinges use non-woven fabric. I forgot to secure the button placket.

As for the pocket detail, to the top I added 2.5 cm per hem, on the other three sides 0.5 cm each.

So, all the details are cut out, let's start sewing.

Shelves.

Iron the placket piece by 0.5 cm, and then by 3.5 cm. There will be loops on the right piece and a button on the left. Ironed, basting. We carry out all the operations with the second part of the front. From the wrong side we put a stitch 0.2-0.3 cm to secure the strip.

Collar.

Let's duplicate the details of the collar. We fold the front parts and sew a line of 0.5 cm. We cut off the unnecessary fabric by 0.3 cm so that it does not give unnecessary thickening after turning it inside out.

Next, you need to fold the collar in half and in the middle, cut a small piece of fabric at an angle at the cut line. This is necessary in order to accurately match the collar parts using this mark in the future. By the way, we do the same on the collar stand parts and back parts.

We turn the collar out and iron it. We put a finishing stitch on the front part, as shown in the photo below.

Fold the collar pieces like in the photo below. The only difference is that on the underside of the collar it is necessary to place the second part of the stand with the front side facing the front of the collar. You will end up with something like a “sandwich”. Sweep it away. Place a stitch 0.5 cm from the cut. Trim off excess fabric 0.3 cm from the stitch line.

Let's iron. Turn it inside out and iron it again. The collar is ready!

Back and shelf.

Let's move on to the details of the back and shelf. We sweep the shoulder sections, try them on, and adjust them if necessary. Now, you need to check how much the length of the neckline and the length of the collar stand match. Join the middle of the stand and the middle of the back piece and baste the collar to the neck.

We finish the work with the shoulder sections. We perform a sewing seam. We sew a line 1 cm from the cuts. We cut one of the allowances by 0.5 cm, then iron the longer one by 0.2 cm and cover the shorter allowance with it, baste it and lay a line.

Now you can finally sew the collar into the neck. The sequence of actions is as follows: we apply the lower part of the collar with the front side to the front side of the back. Sweep it away. Place a stitch 0.5 cm from the cut. And then, you will need all the sleight of hand that you are capable of :).

We close the cut with the inner part of the collar stand. It will be easier to lay the connecting stitch from the inside of the shirt dress. It will extend 0.1-0.2 cm from the edge, but from the front side you need to get right into the junction of the collar stand and the front and back parts. How did I achieve this? A little trick :).

We lay out the upper part of the dress on a flat surface and, from the front side, perpendicular to the surface, stick pins directly into the seam every 4-5 cm. They will allow you to see whether the seam is closed on the inside of the collar and figure out where to put the stitching. At the same time, adjust the edge of the hem from the wrong side. And then, focusing on the pins, make a mark with contrasting threads or mark a line of stitching with tailor's chalk. It's actually easier than it seems. You will succeed:).

Pocket.

To place the pocket, I chose the left side of the shirtdress. We iron 3 allowances of 0.5 cm and the top allowance of 2.5 cm, and then on the wrong side of the pocket we glue it with a strip of dublerin. Let's baste. And then, 0.2 cm from the edge, we lay a finishing stitch along three sides of the pocket.

Sleeves.

Due to the fact that the shoulder seam line of a shirt dress is shifted forward, first you need to clarify how many centimeters from the line of the center of the shoulder it is shifted. Simply lay the shirt out on a flat surface the way it would look in its final state. Mark the resulting fold, which is visible from the front side. You can make a small incision. Now fold the sleeve in half and also mark the fold. Join the cuts by placing the sleeve piece right side to the right side of the sleeve armhole as shown in the photo below.

Buttons and loops.

We start with the loops that will be located on the right shelf shirt dresses. Typically on shirts and blouses, it is customary to place one button at the collar stand. I decided not to do this, because... in the summer, I’m unlikely to fasten it with the top button shirt dress. From the joining seam of the collar with the main parts of the product, we retreat 6 cm and mark with chalk the place of the first buttonhole. I placed all subsequent loops every 7 cm. There are 8 of them in total.

And, of course, we sew on the buttons.

Side seams.

I simplified the processing of the side seams. So, we sew up the side seams and sew a line. And then we need bias tape. I think there is no need for additional explanations here.

Bottom of the product.

Hem shirt dresses I also finished it with bias tape. We close the open cut with bias tape and bend the edge of the dress inward to the width of the tape. Then from the top edge 0.2 cm we lay a line along the bottom of the product.

Voila, your new thing is ready! Congratulations!

P.S. How successful do you think it was? my first experience of sewing a shirt dress? See you, as always, in the comments 😉

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