Sew a shirt dress with your own hands: patterns and master class from the blog “Sewing Things. Sewing a women's shirt Learning to sew a women's shirt

Hello, dear readers of the site!
Today we will sew a shirt dress. I will not exaggerate at all when I say that this item of clothing never goes out of fashion. The silhouette, details, shape of sleeves or collar change, but the essence itself remains unchanged for many years - since the beginning of the 20th century since the time of Madame Coco.

I will sew a rather laconic version, but your dress can have different pockets,

with embroidery,

or you will get inspired by looking at an article about fashionable shirts and want to repeat something similar, only in dress format.

So, let's begin.

We will need:

- 1.5-2 m of fabric
- 10-12 buttons
- thread, scissors, chalk, needles
- adhesive material (non-woven fabric, dublerin)
- pattern (almost every magazine with ready-made patterns has basic models of shirts/shirt dresses. I took patterns No. 23 and No. 19 from Susanna Moden 4/2017 as a basis)

Alternatively, you can model the pattern from your base pattern...

...extending the shelf piece to make a one-piece fastener bar. I removed the waist darts along the front and in the side seams, as I wanted a more “loose-fitting” item on the figure.

If desired, the back can be made with a yoke.

We make the sleeves shorter, providing cuffs.

In addition, you will need to cut out the collar piece. Modeling it is quite simple. We measure the cut of the neck (by the back part + by the shelf part)...

...and draw a rectangle, the larger side of which will be equal to this value, and the smaller side will be approximately 1.5-2.5 cm (depending on the material - narrower stands look more harmonious on thin fabrics).

Raise one side of the rectangle by 2.5-3 cm, smoothly bending it. The detail for the collar stand is ready.

Draw a line that is symmetrically mirrored to the top of the stand but a little shorter...

...and from there we finish drawing our collar of the desired shape.

The collar, cuffs and placket must be glued with duplicating material.

We process the cuts on the overlocker, sew the back part with the front parts along the shoulder seams.

The sleeve in shirt-type products is almost always sewn into an open armhole, and then the side seams and the seam on the sleeve are sewn with one seam.

We will talk in more detail about processing the collar and cuffs another time separately, since this topic is quite extensive.
And today I would like to dwell on the moment of hemming the bottom.
To shape the bend angle of the plank and the bottom cut with a “corner” you need to do the following:

Iron the fold lines of the placket and the bottom,

- mark the place of their intersection, draw a line between these marks,

- chop at an angle and sweep, making sure that the stitching goes strictly along the marked line on both sides,

- stitch and cut off excess,

- iron thoroughly and turn inside out,

We sew out the loops, sew on the buttons - the dress is ready. Mine also got a badge.

Warm May days and beautiful dresses to everyone!

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A women's summer version of a shirt made of silk or cotton fabric can be complemented with a bow, as well as a neckline or stand-up collar. If desired, you can apply Ukrainian or any other ornament to the shirt. You can sew a stylish women's shirt at home - quickly, easily and focusing on your own preferences.

Making a pattern for a women's shirt

To sew a women's shirt you will need:

pattern;
silk, cotton or linen piece of fabric;
interlining;
needles;
threads;
sewing machine and graph paper.

First of all, take measurements of the half-girth of the neck and chest, and also decide how long the sleeve, shoulder and the product itself will be. Using the finished pattern, you should cut out the front, back and sleeves.

If you are sewing a feminine shirt, remove the darts from the pattern, make a blouse with reliefs and model puff sleeves. Don't forget to leave 5-7 cm on the shelves for fastening

Fold the fabric in half lengthwise. Arrange the parts so that you have two symmetrical parts for the sleeves and shelves. For a loose-fitting shirt, prepare one back piece folded in half. Cut out double rectangular cuffs lengthwise, 26–30 cm long and 14–20 cm wide, then cut out two collar pieces and two stand pieces, not forgetting the seam allowances.

We sew a women's shirt

Reinforce the upper parts of the stand, cuffs and collar with non-woven material, then fold the paired parts together and level them. Place the collar pieces with right sides facing each other, move the top piece down 2 mm, pin them in the center with a pin, sweep and stitch the pieces. Turn the collar inside out and iron it.

Place the stand pieces right sides together, pin them together and stitch them along the side seams. Baste and stitch the collar to the stand, then iron the seams, turn the product right side out and stitch the collar and stand. Repeat these manipulations with the cuffs. Topstitch the cuffs, 0.5 cm from the edge.

To place a button or cufflink on a cuff, make a vertical or horizontal slot for a buttonhole on it and overcast it (by hand with a buttonhole stitch or overlock stitch)

Fold the edges of the shelves intended for fastening and iron them. Baste and stitch the shoulder darts on the back. Place the front and back pieces right sides together. Baste the shoulder and side seams. Align the seams of the sleeves with the side seam of the shirt and sew in both sleeves. Then pin the middle of the back neckline to the middle of the sleeve stand.

Place the collar and shirt with right sides facing each other, then baste and stitch the outer side of the stand to the neckline. Press the seam. Fold the bottom edge of the inside of the post (pin the hem so you don't have to resew it later) to baste and stitch the post to it.

After attaching the stand, alternately baste and stitch the outer and inner sides of the cuffs to the product in the same way that you used when sewing the stand. Finish the seams by hand or with an overlocker. Make loops in the shelves and sew buttons. The women's shirt is ready.

A classic shirt is a universal item of clothing and you can always find a pair of such shirts in every man's wardrobe. It’s not difficult to sew them yourself, but it’s much more interesting and economical to use ready-made clothes to remake and create unusual and stylish models.

Knowing how to sew a baptismal shirt or dress for a girl with your own hands, you can significantly diversify your wardrobe. By giving old clothes a new life, you can emphasize your own taste and, by showing your creative ability to complement your own image, make designer clothing models.

Fashionable and stylish: sewing a shirt dress for summer

In the hot summer, you can look stylish and fashionable by adding hand-sewn, attractive and original items to your wardrobe. To sew a dress shirt, you need to pick up an old shirt, and to decorate the model, choose additional elements, decorative flounces and bows, straps and appliqués.

The sleeves and collar of the shirt are cut off, and additional bust darts can be used for an elegant look. Lush flounces sewn at shoulder level will give the model an exclusive look of a designer item, and patch pockets and appliqués will complement the overall style, helping to hide damaged areas of the material.

DIY sleeveless vest from an old shirt

A long-sleeve linen shirt will become a sleeveless vest that can be easily sewn yourself using the following sequence of steps:

taking measurements for a future sleeveless vest and matching sizes;
the sleeves and collar are repelled; they can be saved for other elements;
basting the neckline and shoulder seams with marking horizontal darts;
machine fastening of seams and choice of decor for the sleeveless vest.

By shortening the front length of the sleeveless vest, the back can be slit or the bottom can be finished off, rounded to the side seams, creating a truly stylish model.

Shirt for girls: simple pattern

To sew a shirt for a girl with your own hands, just take all the necessary measurements and make a pattern similar to a man’s shirt. The only sewing nuance will be the obligatory addition of waist darts to the pattern, which will make the model more graceful and elegant, which will appeal to the little fashionista.

To decorate a shirt, you can use purchased decorative elements that you can make yourself. This can be embroidery, beads and beads, applique in the form of flowers or animals, patch pockets with decorative patterns, trimmed with grosgrain ribbons or lace.

How to use shirts and update your wardrobe

Having collected clothes that have gone out of fashion, it is better to think of what you can sew from a shirt with your own hands; the following ideas will be useful for this:

a stylish top with or without sleeves, featuring a loose fit;
beach tunic with short sleeves and cropped hem;
beautiful and practical A-line skirt with buttons;
original denim top with wide elastic for summer;
vest with buttons or buttons with a partially open back;
elegant blouse with airy sleeves in the form of lanterns.

You can combine several shirts in one product, creating stylish dresses and tunics, original and unusual blouses with decorations.

Original blouse from an old shirt

It’s not difficult to sew a blouse from a men’s shirt yourself; to do this you need to shorten the sleeves and reshape the collar. The turn-down collar easily turns into a stand-up collar, which can be decorated with original embroidery or complemented with a wide ribbon from the remaining fabric to imitate a tie.

The blouse pattern is complemented by horizontal and vertical darts corresponding to the measurements taken. Proper tailoring will allow you to highlight your elegant silhouette and diversify your wardrobe with an inexpensive but stylish item that is perfect for a party or going to work.

Dress for girls and original applique

When thinking about what to sew from old shirts, it’s easy to make a choice by coming up with an image for your child; a dress for a girl is sewn like this:

on a large shirt you need to draw the pattern of the future dress, leaving the buttons and the bottom seam intact;
the top of the cut out pattern is folded and stitched with a basting seam, like the rest of the joints;
basting seams are sewn on a machine, excess threads are removed and decor or pockets are sewn onto the dress;
Narrow grosgrain ribbons are inserted into the upper part and sleeves and gathered to create volume.

This unusual dress is perfect for summer walks, and is perfect for active children.

From identical shirts of the same color, you can sew a dress for a mother and daughter, or two sisters, paying tribute to modern fashion. This addition to your wardrobe will be a great option for saving your budget and an opportunity to highlight your own style by showing your creativity.

Photo instructions on how to sew a shirt with your own hands

Not difficult. Gradually migrating into the women's wardrobe, such a piece of clothing as a shirt acquired a lot of variations and styles. By decorating it with some details, you can get a romantic or democratic style. Thus, this toilet detail can even become a blouse. But its basis is always the same - a classic shirt pattern. We'll get to know her now.

Necessary measurements and how to take them correctly

In order to create a shirt pattern, you need to take measurements. They are removed directly from the person for whom the future product is sewn. Measurements are the values obtained by measuring the girth or length of parts of the body with a centimeter tape.

So, we measure the neck, placing it at the level of the collarbone and the protruding cervical vertebra behind. We write down the resulting value. In the future, we record all measurement values on paper with maximum accuracy, it depends on the correct tailoring of the shirt.

Measuring your waist and hips is quite easy. It is worth remembering that the hips and chest are measured at the most prominent points.

The length of the product is measured from the mid-thigh line parallel to the spine, and the back length is measured to the waist.

Building a shirt front

Construct a pattern for a women's shirt if you know that its main part consists of three elements - the back and two shelves in front. The shelves are two halves connected by a clasp.

On a large sheet of paper we draw a pattern for a women's shirt, starting from the shelf.

Let's draw a horizontal line, the length of which is equal to the waist circumference. Let's sign the line.
On the right we will leave 5 cm and put a point through which we will draw a vertical line in the middle of the front.
Along this line we put the values up and down to get the length of the product. Let's put points.
Draw a perpendicular from the top point to the left.
Let's plot the neck circumference along it and mark it with a dot.
From the starting point, it is necessary to set aside the depth of the neck, which is approximately 1 cm greater than the circumference of the neck.
From the end point of the neck circumference, set the shoulder length to the left.
And from the end point of the shoulder downwards we measure 4 cm. We connect the beginning and end of the shoulder line so that it turns out to be beveled down.
From the waist line along the mid-front line downwards, we set aside the hip circumference.
From the found point to the left we draw a perpendicular, which will be the line of the hips.

Building the back of the shirt

The pattern for the back will be slightly wider than the shelf. It is much easier to build.

Calculation of the width of the elements relative to the chest line

It is impossible to make a pattern for a women's shirt without checking the measurements you received. The width of the product in this case is much more important than its length.

We make a small increase to the chest girth (7-8 cm), divide the amount by 4. The width of the shelf will be equal to this figure increased by 2 cm, and for the back you should subtract 2 cm from the resulting number. Let's put these values aside along the chest line and mark them with dots. The same values at the waist will be a couple of centimeters less, since the waist is narrower than the chest.

Calculation of the width of the elements relative to the hip line

In this case, points are applied to the pattern of a women's shirt, the location of which is calculated in the same way as the previous one. The only difference is that at the end you need to draw the side line, connecting the waist, hips and chest at the extreme points.

And finally, it remains to add a few small touches to the drawing:

Create a random dart on the chest.
Smoothly draw a line from the edge of the shoulder to the edge of the chest line. This will be the armhole of the shirt. The sleeve is sewn here.
Draw a dart from the waist to the hip line, 1 cm wide.
The “waist” dart on the back is located from the hip line to the middle of the side.
We deepen and widen the neck a little.
Constructing a placket for the button line parallel to the middle of the front.

You can create a pattern for a women's shirt quickly and easily, if you show persistence and care. This is accessible even to a novice seamstress. It is enough to understand a woman’s shirt once, in order to develop more complex models of shirts and blouses on its basis.

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The women's model of the shirt (classic shirt) is an interpretation of the men's outerwear. The femininity of the style is achieved through standard or raised darts, variable proportions that match the figure, and the ability to model the cut.

Features of the cut

Darts formed in the waist and chest area can be classic or embossed. With their help, the silhouette of the product is narrowed.
Fitting the model according to the figure becomes relevant.
Changes in proportions are associated with a decrease in the length of the sleeves and bottom of the product.
Modeling allows you to create a variety of configurations for the collar, fastener, and bottom design of a women’s shirt.

The pattern for creating a women's shirt is built on the basis of a simple (men's) shirt cut, by changing and adding fragments of the construction. Or it is created from scratch based on precise measurements.

A men's shirt, sewn according to modern sewing standards, is characterized by other characteristics.

Symmetry of construction fragments.
Fastener along the entire length of the front.
Sleeve with upper extension and low edging.
The end of the sleeve has a slit and a cuff.
Yoke on the back.
Shoulder seam located closer to the front.
Turn-down stand-up collar (can be cut-off or one-piece).

Modeling options

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The design of the base model varies mainly around the degree of fit of the product to the body and the variety of its configurations.

A flat cut without darts or raised areas is made on the basis of a standard dress pattern with a straight, loose silhouette.
A piece of a fitted silhouette is created based on a pattern of a classic model, historically assigned to the men's wardrobe, or it is built according to exact measurements using a construction grid.

As a result of using one of the two modeling methods, the product will be equipped with darts at the waist and chest area. The planting density will increase. The design of collar edges, trims and methods of forming cuffs may be different.

Modeling based on dress

Changes are being made to the pattern of a women's dress model with a not too tight silhouette. In this case, add 5 cm to the size of the chest semicircle.

Model basis

Shorten the base pattern according to the new length measurement. It is not recommended to make a cut shorter than 20 cm from the waist line.
Measure the extra or missing centimeters at the hip circumference level.
Make the neckline wider at the back and front (+1 cm).
Move the dart from the chest area closer to the neckline.
Close the fold to ensure comfortable positioning of the shoulder blades. To do this, extend the shoulder contour, starting from the neckline, by an amount equal to the full length of the shoulder of the back part.
Part of the solution of the resulting dart will fall under the wedge passing between the yoke and the back of the cut. The contour of the back armhole will become longer because of this.
Make the armhole 2 cm deeper, lowering the contour passing under it. Measure the width of the armhole and find its center.

Yoke

Raise the shoulder line of the back by 1.5 cm and make it longer by the same amount. Lower the contour of the shoulder in the area of the shelf and lengthen it by 1.5 cm.
Get a new armhole line.
Divide the fragment of the midline of the central part of the back between the neckline and the previous contour of the armhole in half.
Draw a horizontal line until it intersects the armhole contour. This line will connect the yoke with the back.
Divide the yoke line in two. Place 1.5 cm horizontally from the last mark in the direction of the armhole.|
Measure 0.5 cm along the armhole line, towards the bottom, starting from the intersection mark with the yoke fragment.
Decorate the top of the back.
Mark the side shirt cut, lowering the vertical from the mark of the center of the armhole width. Draw a 5-centimeter segment upward along the same line.

Bottom of the product

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Smoothly shape the bottom outline. Raise the cut at the side line.
Depending on the previously recorded amount of excess in the hip area, the bottom of the product is shaped. If this value is zero, draw the lower curve continuously. Provided there is a positive surplus, put this value on the left and right sides, starting on the side cut, along the bottom line. If there is not enough width in the hip area, set aside the appropriate number of centimeters from the side cut along the bottom in both directions and re-shape the bottom of the product.
From the point dividing the straight line passing under the armhole in two, draw a vertical line. In accordance with its location, mark the dart on the back.
From the center of the chest, draw the vertical line necessary to construct the waist dart.
Calculate the total opening of the waist darts by measuring the width of the mesh on the construction. Compare the resulting figure with the existing half-waist measurement.
Distribute the value of the total dart solution at the waist. 30% of this figure will be the dart on the back part. 37% will go into the tuck of the shelf. 13% will be added to the relief of the side cut of the back, and 20% to the relief of the side contour of the front part of the cut. The distribution of darts is individual for each body type; they can be transferred from the base pattern without changes.
The back dart should end 6cm above the bottom edge. The tucked fragment of the shelf will fit directly onto the part itself.
Measure 5 cm along the seam of the front side down from the armhole mark. From the resulting point, draw a straight line to the top of the dart in the chest area. Cut the cut along this mark. Move the dart to the side section of the chest area.
Determine the dart in the chest area on the side seam and shorten it by 3 cm.

Clasp

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If the shirt is supposed to be fastened with buttons, the front must be extended along the contour of the neckline and along the bottom edge by about 2 cm. Bring out a new section of the front. This will create a half-skid line. Buttons and loops will be located along the center line on different parts.

From the center of the front (it is marked by the half-skid line) to the left and right sides, set aside the width of the bar for the future fastener (about 2.5 cm). Draw parallels to the left and right through the received marks. This fragment will be used as a strip for a future fastener.
On the half-skid line, mark the location of the buttons at regular intervals.
The contours of the trim detail should be reflected relative to the edge edge line.

Plank

A button fastener is a stitched placket or a one-piece piece.

If the part is stitched, cut off the flange. Then the fold line will be the outermost straight line. Add allowances to the plank cuts. Place a finishing stitch 2 mm from the side edge.
The one-piece strip, being a part of the shelf, needs allowances. Fold it inside out or right side out, depending on the location of the side edge. The strip is sewn onto the base.
If the item is sewn from thin fabric (silk, chiffon), it is recommended to glue the strip with an appropriate piece of fabric impregnated with adhesive.

Sleeve

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The reduced height of the collar of a classic shirt during modeling must be preserved by reducing the sleeve height. If the model is tightly adjacent to the body, the height of the sleeve collar can be 1/4 of the armhole size.

Extend the sleeve at the top. After this, you will need to deepen the armhole and lengthen the shoulder.
Sew in the sleeve, joining the shoulder seams and inserting it into the armhole.
Combine the side sections of the base with the sleeves.

The sleeve for a ladies' shirt can be made according to a separate drawing.

Construction of the sleeve

To create a drawing, the length of the future armhole, wrist circumference, and arm length are determined.

From the starting point of construction, draw a straight line vertically down, equal to the length of the arm (minus the width of the future cuff) with an increase of 1.5 cm so that the sleeve lies freely and does not stretch.
From the first point downwards, set aside the value of the height of the sleeve coverage.
Draw a horizontal line that will go through the third pattern mark.
From the initial cut mark to the resulting horizontal line, set aside several segments equal to the value of the armhole length, divided in two.
The segment between the two points obtained will be equal to the width of the upper part of the sleeve.
Divide each of the resulting lengths into 4 equal parts. From the new points, draw perpendiculars up or down to form the edging of the part.
From mark No. 2 to the left and right in the horizontal direction, set aside the values of half the circumference of the wrist.
Decorate the sleeve sides with curved curves.
Use a smooth outline to mark the line along which the cuff will be sewn.
Divide in two that part of the cuff stitching contour that occupies the sleeve half located closer to the back.
From the new mark, draw a 15-centimeter segment perpendicularly upward, towards the stitching area. This will mark where the part will be cut.
Stitch the cuff at the beginning of the cut.

Cuff

Cuff configurations vary in width and corner design. If the width reaches 8 cm, the element is equipped with two buttons and two loops.

A rectangular cuff is cut out in the form of one piece with a fold.
The cuff, the corner of which is rounded or truncated, is folded into two parts.

The part is cut and shaped in several ways.

Using a plank.
Inside two-seam sleeve.
With the help of edging.

Collar

The shirt collar can be a turn-down collar with a one-piece or cut-off stand. The stand (height) varies in this design. A high-stand collar should fit closer to the body. Low or medium may lag somewhat.

The degree of fit of the collar part is also influenced by the curvature of the lines. Straight contours provide a certain lag, and concave contours provide fit.

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Having begun to connect the seams sequentially, the allowances are processed with a sewing-type stitch. At this stage, wet and heat treatment of the workpiece should be carried out.

On the back part, first of all, sew reliefs running vertically.
Make darts for the shelf.
Attach the yoke pieces to the front and back pieces.
The front part is equipped with pockets and flaps.
Join the seams on the sides.
Sew strips for fastening to the edges of the shelf fragments.
Bring the sleeves together at the elbows until the cut necessary to make the fastener begins.
Process the sleeve cuts using strips. Sew the bottom sleeve stitches. Attach cuffs.
Sew the collar into the neckline.